P0014
 

So this morning I went to the movies, I had about 40 miles left in the tank according to the fuel range meter. I went in 2 hrs later come out and start up the car, first I get a weird warning on the speedo saying "Engine power reduced" and also the low fuel warning came up.

So the start was really weird, and the engine revs were really weird sounding. So I went ahead and shut the car off for a few mins, while I checked, oil and the wires and hoses in the engine compartment. I then went ahead and start the car up and it's fine but the CEL is on, I move over to the gas station across the street, the car's a little jerky and fill up. I filled about 16.9 gallons.

Check the oil after letting it sit for a little and the level is fine, it's in the crosshatch. But the CEL is still on, drive home which is about 15 mins away. The drive was fine, in face just as good as it's always been, I did not notice any engine power issues. Get home and check the code and this is what I get....

P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

I have been using 93 gas for about 3 weeks, drove about 600 miles with this gas, but this was just weird.

I did a search for the code on the site and this is what I found....

http://camaro5.com/forums/search.php?searchid=13512805

I hope it's not closer to the second thread and this was just a weird once in a blue moon thing. I cleared the code and I will see if I get this again tomorrow.

First guess is it's timing chain related and/or things were not put back together quite right, if the CEL keeps coming back... hopefully it was just just a one time odd thing...

Yea if its the timing chain another clue to piece the puzzle to figure out what happened the first time the engine blew.

SOB well if my memory serves me you had a rebuild, If need be you need a new engine if timing chain is causing problems. I really hope it is nothing for your sake, CEL's really don't go off random much for no reason, at least not that I have read.

So this morning was weird........tried to autostart the car, it started to turn over but stopped. So I put the key in and started the car, and woke right up no problems. Drove to work as well, 15 min drive, no problems power is there, CEL didn't come back on either. But it did ask me to open and close the windows repeatedly for what seemed like 5 mins, so I could finish indexing them. Come to think of it, the car has asked me to do that a bunch of times in the last couple weeks.

I also drove 15 mins last night to pick up pizza, so between the drive last night and this morning nothing weird, and no CEL.

That window thing has happened a couple of times. I just took it to the dealer and they cleared/reset something for me. If I'm not mistaken you do it through your wiper stalk trip computer controls

blade, if I was you I wouldn't have cleared the cel but instead I would of left it on and took it to the dealer. that cam position cel has to do with phasers I believe. maybe the cam timing is not set right.

but... you know most likely all the tech would have done is cleared it and said come back if it happens again.... LOL

FWIW, I found this on a Traverse forum.


Just a little information I found using the service manual about the P0014 code your dealer came up with. I would think it may be powertrain warranty because of what it controls, or it could also be emissions. I would check and see if the timing chain had been worked on in the past on your used Traverse, since that is one of the conditions which may set the P0014 if it wasn't done properly, as noted in the service manual.



The camshaft position (CMP) actuator system enables the engine control module (ECM) to change the timing of the camshafts while the engine is operating. The CMP actuator solenoid signal from the ECM is pulse width modulated (PWM). The ECM controls the CMP actuator solenoid duty cycle by controlling the amount of solenoid ON time. The CMP actuator solenoid controls the advance or the retard of each camshaft. The CMP actuator solenoid controls the oil flow that applies the pressure to advance or retard the camshafts.

• The engine oil condition has a major impact on the camshaft actuator system.
• A low oil level condition may set this DTC. The engine may require an oil change. Inquire with the customer when the last oil change was performed. You may also monitor the scan tool Engine Oil Life parameter. Advise the customer an oil change may be required.
• Inspect the engine for any recent engine mechanical repairs. An incorrectly installed camshaft, camshaft actuator, or timing chain can cause this DTC to set.

Good points, but I have driven the car for nearly 4000 miles since the rebuild. Wouldn't the car pick up the code sooner, if the timing chain or the cam shaft was improperly installed?

Strange, could it be the tune causing the problems? Doesn't it play with cam phasing? Keep us posted and I hope this is the last of your problems.

And the weirdness continued this morning. Actually started yesterday morning. I tried remote starting the ride yesterday morning, and the engine did like a qtr turn or something and stopped but the car started right up when I put the key in and turned the ignition. Throughout the day the car remote started just fine, did it about 3x.

This morning remote start didn't work again. I couldn't turn the car on thru the ignition either. The windows wouldn't work etc. etc. Symptoms of a dead battery, take a look at the voltage, reads 11.9v, thought it was pretty low. Checked the wires from the battery, they are tight. So I get the code scanner out, and I get a bunch of codes saying "System Voltage low", ECM wasn't getting enough power and other related codes.

So I was like well lets jump start and take her in, but before I went looking for my neighbor I turned the key one more time. The engine started up strong and the voltage started pick up too.

I still took the car to the dealer, who is replacing my battery and the negative cable. It was pretty corroded. I saw the corrosion 3 weeks ago, working on the gauges and laid some baking soda on it and then forgot to go back in to clean it all up. Dealer provided me with a Malibu as a loaner since the cable won't arrive till tomorrow.

So weird.

Hope it's the end of your issues. Fingers crossed for you.

Fingers crossed also, I was starting to think battery even before I got to the post about the voltage issues, if that gives you hope. When you said it wouldn't start and then wanted the windows reset, I was thinking maybe the battery is going. These cars these days are ver sensitive to the current and voltage from the battery with all the sensors.

Just picked up the ride, battery replaced and cable as well. Let's see what else pops up in the coming weeks like a bad case of hemorrhoids LMFAO

:sm0:

After reading all the posts, I was gonna say, sounds like your battery. I figured this right away when you said you had to reindex your windows and you were having issues remote starting the car. I had the exact same side effects but mine was from my battery being completely drained using a 110v inverter.

I've seen Camaros throw random codes from insufficent battery juice to supply the computer adequately.

I hope everything is fixed for you.


Shaun

Car remote started fine this morning. Let's see if any of these codes go apeshit over the next few weeks. If anything pops up I will update this thread otherwise, assume all is well :)

Thanks!

So yesterday, the remote start didn't work yet again. I sat in the car, turned the key and the car started up, I think a little sluggish, but that could be just a placebo effect. The car asked me to index the damn windows again too.

I didn't get a chance last night, but this morning instead of starting the car, I code scanned her. This is the code I received.....

P2105 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Engine Shutdown

WTF? Anyway car started right up this morning when I had the key in, didn't try remote start.

I don't get it, how come these issues pop up only in the AM? Throughout the day afterwards I have no issues starting the car up.

I am gonna clear the code tonight, and see if this is one of those remnant codes I was getting from the earlier troubles a week ago.

The other codes haven't popped back up, so :iono:

The code explains why the remote start didn't work... I know it the past you said the remote start would start to turn over then stop... wondering if you were actually throwing the code when you tried to start it... get the code and the remote start would then stop and not work...

As for in the AM... it' usually colder in the morning and the cold could be a contributing factor... I had a car once that when the temps were below freezing the HVAC switches wouldn't work... so as you drove it a while and things warmed up the HVAC panel magically came back to life!

Sounds like you still have some kind of electrical issues.. which can be a absolute nightmare to chase down...

Yep.....not excited :(

Thanks for responding btw!

You do know we're having a massive solar storm right now and could be roasting your ECU. :yikes:

J/K

Little bit of research on that code showed it can be related to the TB and happens when it's cold or first thing in the morning.

One guy (caddy) replaced the TB and all is well. Wonder if your 3 bolt TB is leaking when it's cold but expands and stops the leak after it warms up?

Just a thought.

I've got to agree with Scrming. Definately sounds like an electrical issue that could be related to the cold temps.

Where did you run the power lines for the oil press gauge? jw...

you may have a faulty ground somewhere that is slowly draining your battery over night (mixed with cold temps that can cause issues with batteries as well). IIRC, the TB can cause issues as well

I've got a kinda-similar issue with my truck that when I lock the truck with the button (or fob) and let it sit overnight, the next morning (usually if its been cold out), when I go to unlock the truck, the fob doesnt work and when I use my key, it sets the alarm off. :facepalm: and then I have to reprogram the key fob as the truck doesnt respond to it after that point. I've got an electrical gremlin that is draining the battery and resetting the ecm and bcm overnight.


If you want to Blade, I may be able to work some free time out this weekend if you wanted to drive down.:iono:

Goddamn solar storms LOL I saw the TB issues as well, but I have a plan to remove the IM this weekend and install the insulators. So when I do that, I will have a better angle to remove that dumb broken bolt. I am not sure if it's the entire problem though, because last year it wasn't an issue :iono:

Thanks for the offer Spike, but I have Saturday sat aside to first finish that damn gauge job and install these insulators. If I have these issues afterwards, then I might come down and we can trace this friggin electric issues.

I am also going to clear the codes today and see what happens tomorrow morning when I try the remote start. Shoulda I tried today SMH.

Let's hope it's not an electrical issue as that can be a PITA to fix sometimes. Look like you got the plan down so start there and see if the problem persist. The next time you get a CEL take her in to the dealer and do not clear the code yourself as you could be only masking the issues and prolonging the problem. It could be as simple as a bad ecm to someone screwing up the install somewhere. Sometimes mechanical issues can cross over to electrical problems. This kind of remind me of my very first wrx back in 2001 when I had to hard wire a cobb piggy back and ended up frying up some things. My odo went out, and had a christmas light for months. Finally I had one of my car guys go through the whole electrical system and it took him over a week to finally get it halfway right. My electrical system has not been right since then and I couldn't take the car to the dealer and ask them if they could fix my electrical issue because I effed up after trying to hard wire a piggy back ecm:facepalm: I hate electrical issues with a passion LOL.

If you get another CEL then take her in so you can start building a record with them. I'm sure the first time they will probably just clear the code and send you on your way.

thats why I offered to help...:D

That's the thing the CEL hasn't been on at all. Only that one time about 2.5 weeks ago, since then nothing.

But let's see what happens this weekend.

I got a friend of mine helping me here, he's a mechanic with YEARS of experience so I am confident we can get it done with his help. But if it's still a bust, I will ring you up. :thumbsup:

how much experience do you think I have? :facepalm::iono:







Should I send you my resume before I offer to help next time? :laugh:

I was trying to reassure you dumbass.

nothing you've done with your car so far has reassured me in the least :sm0:

Man anything intermitent is going to be a royal pain in the neck. Hopefully you are able to track it down or it is just some sort of fluke, based around the cold.

Nitwit :paddle:

just sayin... I'm going to start calling you PQ jr. :sm0:

I don't meet the height requirement :sm0:

lmao:laughabove:

This morning car remote started no problem. Then I turned the car off and ran the code scanner.

P0571 Dev:05E8 History current stored Cruise Control Brake Switch Circuit
P0562 Dev:05E8 History current stored System Voltage Low (TCM)

The history part of the description above makes me think Ez Flash is telling me these codes have been called before, but I am not certain if that is actually a problem right now.

Ok, before I went to bed last night, ran the code scanner again. This time I got this code along with the other two:

P0606 PCM Processor Fault

Took the car in this morning, they are going to replace my ECM.

I'll give you a call a little later:chevy:

Well they replaced the ecu yesterday. Parked the car overnight and wouldn't start this morning. All it did when I turned the key was click. I had to jump start the car to get her moving.

Oh and these codes are still there.......

P0562 System Voltage Low
P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low

Dropped the car off at the dealer and when they tried to crank her, zilch. This is just very frustrating at this point.

Just got done talking to the SM. If you all recall back in December I had my engine rebuilt, well looks like the morons at that Service Shop, didn't ground my engine. My current SM said that he ground wires were falling off, hence all the electric being drained from the car when my car sat there over night. And the car driving fine after the engine spooled up the battery with enough juice during the day.

They took care of the grounding of these wires, I am having them hold on to the car till tomorrow morning so I can go in and attempt to fire up the ride in front of them. Crossing fingers.

And now I am going to call GM Customer Service to ream out that old shop.