[1 RD JEWL]

OK,

I just did a total break overhaul on mine last week. I have dimpled and slotted disks, hawk ceramic pads and goodrige stainless g-stop lines with motul rbf 600 fluid.

First the brakes should work comparably at first without "Burnishing" also refered to as "Seating", "Seasoning", etc. My ceramics needed no "heating up" to work well. I did burnish them shortly after putting them all in. This process is 5-6 HARD stops from 55-60 MPH to 5-10 MPH. This heats up the rotors and transfers some of the ceramic pad onto the rotors. Once done it is a one time per lifetime of the bad deal. Make sure you don't come to a complete stop though, you do not want to warp the rotors thus down to 5-10 MPH so the rotors are still turning. I did this and they have much better stopping power than the OEM in my opinion. Some of this will be due to the break lines too.

I agree with one reader here that said to have your lines checked again i.e. bleeding them properly. Most issues with poor stopping is not due to teh pad or the rotors but teh bleeding of the lines. If they feel "mushy" it is most likely air in your line. The key to this is to have a steady flow of fluid into a bottle without ever running he resevoir dry. If this happened it could be a bigger problem with air in your master celinoid (sp) or the ABS unit. Bottom line is you don't know if this happened if you didn't do it. I would recommend having the whole system purged by a competant shop. I would not want to wonder if they will stop me.

You should still Burnish your rotors adn pads once you have good stopping power again.

I love my rotors and ceramic pads so far.