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Old 03-08-2016, 03:07 PM   #22
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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Drives: 2012 2SS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Shelby NC
Posts: 2,549
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reichler View Post
All I'm saying is the specific product that the OP used (Adam's PFP) is NOT more aggressive than toothpaste. You said if a finishing polish (but more specifically PFP since that's what the OP used) didn't work, then don't try toothpaste as it's less aggressive. That's simply incorrect. It's slightly more aggressive than PFP.

I've taken out some pretty heavy towel scratches and spots from numerous plastic instrument lenses over the years. The best option for the OP, if PFP with a good quality Korean microfiber didn't work, would be to step up to a foam pad next with the same polish. Going off of what the OP has in his stock, I would start with the PFP and a soft red foam applicator. If that doesn't work, step up to a blue hex grip pad, then to an orange pad. If that still doesn't work, he could step to the PCP with a microfiber, and continue following the previous progression of pads if still no improvement.

For the worst scratches I've had to deal with, I've pulled the lenses and used 4" orange and white pads with a cordless drill to eradicate them. I've yet to encounter a stain or scratch where this option didn't pull them out.

Outside of those options, which would be polishes the OP has on hand, Novus Plastic Polishes are phenomenal and would be my suggestion if he needed to buy a new product.

Finally, if all of those options don't work, you're obviously dealing with heavy etching which would require removing the lens and either wet-sanding if possible or ultimately looking for a new lens if available.
What do you think the abrasive is in a DAT polish like the OP used? Aluminum Oxide, it's used in most every compound/polish sold.

What do you think the abrasive is in toothpaste?
Silica, calcium carbonate and or/calcium phosphate, all less abrasive then aluminum oxide. Gel has very little abrasives in it, less then a finishing polish.

The recommendation was based on what the OP stated in the original post that he had. Which was Adams Glass Cleaner. He never stated he had any type of machine or polishes.

Furthermore, these are not towel scratches, they are chemical etchings. The polish he used should be at least capable of removing 2500/3000 grit sand marks. As he stated he removed none of the spots, even the very small ones, this tells me that the spots are etched, or on the inside.

How deep are they etched? No way to know from just that pic.

It is also possible they are on the inside, someone sprayed whatever cleaning solution they used directly on the lens, excess seeped through the edge, and after the water evaporated inside the chemical remained and left spots.

At this point if I was the OP I would follow what Tecca already posted, remove the lens.

I don't make recommendations for products that require a machine unless I know the person has one. I don't recommendations for wetsanding unless I know someone has prior experience doing it. In this case I had no knowledge of the OP having either.

And lastly I sure as hell don't accuse people of "making S%^T up" , unless I have 100% proof that they did, which you do not.

I was trying to help the OP based on what he stated he had to work with.

For the OP, to remove the lens first remove the grey plastic cover, I just did this on my 2012, it's very easy, use your fingernail from the top of it, there are 4 clips holding it on top, gently pull towards you to loosen all 4, after top is loose to remove 3 clips on left and 2 on right by gently pulling up.

2 screws hold the lens in place, one on left, one on right, on my car its a 3/32 hex bolt.

You should be able to do this easily in less then 10 minutes.

When you re-install the grey molding, start from the bottom clips on each side and work your way up, very easy to do.
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Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 03-08-2016 at 04:17 PM.
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