Poor acceleration/ performance on my 2SS

[SeaWolfLestat]

I bought a 2010 2SS L99 a month ago and have put 1k miles on it so far.
I hate to say it: but I am very disappointed with the performance.

There is very little torque when I step on it, and there is a noticeable lag in throttle response ( especially sub 50 mph. )
But even at hi-way speeds the car sorta "backs up" before taking off when I mash the right pedal....
(It take about a half-a-second for the car to respond when I floor it.)
Even with the Stabilitrak disabled I cant get the tires to even chirp from a standstill.

What is going on?!! It this because I have an automatic?
Is this because I don't have headers? Did I buy a defective tranny?
I have a MagnaFlow exhaust. Not sure if it is axel back or cat back.

Don't get me wrong.... the car is fast once it starts going... it just takes it a second to get going.
The car I traded away was a Pontiac Grand Prix GXP....
and when I breathed on the accelerator.... the car took off and snapped your head back.

Please help. I am considering getting headers but obviously I don't wanna waste the money if I bought a lemon.

Any help/ in-sight is Greatly appreciated.

[SinisterEcho]

Have you tried doing the fuse pull after putting in 93 octane? That may help. Or try running it in Sport mode.

I believe the Automatics default to 2nd gear when accelerating from a stop. And you will need to tap-shift down to first.

Also the delay that you are describing while cruising on the highway sounds like AFM (cylinder deactivation or V4 mode) is kicking in. You should be able to deactivate it by switching to Sport mode as well. There are other options available and one of the A6 guys could chime in and help you out a bit more. I have an M6 so im not as familiar with the A6 as others.

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Drive it for another 500 or so miles to get the break in period over with. See if you notice a difference.

If nothing new, try to go to a shop that has a Dynometer and see what kind of numbers it generates. (Should be well under $100)

(*This goes for everybody....You don't want to dyno any car without having legitimate miles on the it.)

Knowing this would help you and others best compare to see if the car is performing up to par or if something was afoot.

Keep up posted and let us all know how best we can help ya out.

Ivan @ Southwest Speed

[SeaWolfLestat]

Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed

Drive it for another 500 or so miles to get the break in period over with. See if you notice a difference.

If nothing new, try to go to a shop that has a Dynometer and see what kind of numbers it generates. (Should be well under $100)

(*This goes for everybody....You don't want to dyno any car without having legitimate miles on the it.)

Knowing this would help you and others best compare to see if the car is performing up to par or if something was afoot.

Keep up posted and let us all know how best we can help ya out.

Ivan @ Southwest Speed

Thanks Ivan... the car is a 2010 and has 27k on it already.

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Originally Posted by SeaWolfLestat

Thanks Ivan... the car is a 2010 and has 27k on it already.

Ah...read the "..1k miles so far."

Dyno that puppy and confirm you haven't dropped into the low fuel table by pulling the #5 and 20 fuses like mentioned above.

Curious to see how it shakes out. Good luck
Ivan @ Southwest Speed

[Juiced1]

The factory torque management on these cars (and most new cars) robs a lot of the around town tire smoking fun. After you try the fuse pull we always recommend a tune, especially on the L99 cars. If you don't plan on adding long tube headers anytime soon or anything else that would require a custom tune a basic handheld tuner is a great way to add a bit of power and more importantly remove the torque management. They also have plenty of other cool options these days as well and you can always remove the tune and re-sell the tuner when you're done using it. Or, if a tune isn't enough to help satisfy your need for speed we can always bump your HP up with a number of other mods such as headers, a cam maybe a supercharger. LS engines love being modded.

[Spartan01]

What mods besides exhaust does it have?
are you running only 93 octane?
If it is the Active Fuel Management, you can have that removed by a tune at your local shop.
Also, what does the oil life indicator display? Do you know for certain the last time it was changed?

[SeaWolfLestat]

Originally Posted by SinisterEcho

Have you tried doing the fuse pull after putting in 93 octane? That may help. Or try running it in Sport mode.

I believe the Automatics default to 2nd gear when accelerating from a stop. And you will need to tap-shift down to first.

Also the delay that you are describing while cruising on the highway sounds like AFM (cylinder deactivation or V4 mode) is kicking in. You should be able to deactivate it by switching to Sport mode as well. There are other options available and one of the A6 guys could chime in and help you out a bit more. I have an M6 so im not as familiar with the A6 as others.

SinsterEcho... THANK YOU!!!! for the fuse pull suggestion.
I have been on these boards for a month and this is the 1st time I have heard about this trick.
Based on what I have read now.... thanks to the link u included.... I am pretty sure this will help.
It is clear to me now that I am not alone with this issue.

[SeaWolfLestat]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

The factory torque management on these cars (and most new cars) robs a lot of the around town tire smoking fun. After you try the fuse pull we always recommend a tune, especially on the L99 cars. If you don't plan on adding long tube headers anytime soon or anything else that would require a custom tune a basic handheld tuner is a great way to add a bit of power and more importantly remove the torque management. They also have plenty of other cool options these days as well and you can always remove the tune and re-sell the tuner when you're done using it. Or, if a tune isn't enough to help satisfy your need for speed we can always bump your HP up with a number of other mods such as headers, a cam maybe a supercharger. LS engines love being modded.

Thanks Juiced1..GREAT info.

[SeaWolfLestat]

Originally Posted by Spartan01

What mods besides exhaust does it have?
are you running only 93 octane?
If it is the Active Fuel Management, you can have that removed by a tune at your local shop.
Also, what does the oil life indicator display? Do you know for certain the last time it was changed?

Thanks Spartan01... how much should a tune cost? I mean Dyno/ track/ the whole she-bang? I am thinking $300-700. And if I don't get headers and an exhaust is the cost justified?

Oil was changed the day I bought it... Mobil 1 and shows 84% left.

[Dexman1349]

^^^ Cost of tunes depends on the shop. There is a shop that most of us Denver-area guys go to that gives us all a good price in the $500-$650 range (depending on what else you're doing).

[SeaWolfLestat]

I just pulled the fuses. Gonna give it a coupla hours and then take it out for a spin.

[SeaWolfLestat]

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

^^^ Cost of tunes depends on the shop. There is a shop that most of us Denver-area guys go to that gives us all a good price in the $500-$650 range (depending on what else you're doing).

Thanks Dex.. that what I thought. I am in Jax, FL. Hopefully it'll be on the lower side down here at sea-level.

[Camper]

what fuel you running?