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Old 05-07-2014, 10:08 AM   #85
sonic525
 
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Thank you Jeepguy_1980.
Ok so i will not be able to use this with RCAs to the 3sixty.3. That is to bad. I already got the RCA and connecters need for this.

Will this work:
Stock head unit - AA-GM44(Cut the leads that go to the Pac along with the Blue amp turn on wire) - Run this with a speed wire to the trunk and connect to the 3sixty.3 via high levels.

I plan on running new speaker wires from my amp to all speakers so do not need to go back to the harness correct?
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:30 PM   #86
patroklai
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What's the consensus on the remote amp wire? the blue or blue/white? I'm getting a loud thump when turning off the car. The theory using the blue wire (I believe because the HU turns off before the amp).
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:35 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patroklai View Post
What's the consensus on the remote amp wire? the blue or blue/white? I'm getting a loud thump when turning off the car. The theory using the blue wire (I believe because the HU turns off before the amp).
The remote amp wire is a an actual remote amp wire. It will turn your amp off, you know this because your amp is powered off when you look at it an the radio is off. Just like when you turn the radio on, the amp powers up.

The reason for the pop is that the radio is shutting down faster than your amp. Part of this is because the remote amp wire slowly drops to 0 volts. While the radio shuts off quicker.

I think a pull down resistor would fix the problem, but I haven't tried it.

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Old 06-09-2014, 09:35 PM   #88
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I installed all this today and i'm getting a loud pop too when the car is shut off. Also my turn signals and door chimes are VERY loud now lol. Is there any fix to this?
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:38 PM   #89
patroklai
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Your amp gains are too high. Set them to the middle or lower and crank the volume on your head unit.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:50 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
The remote amp wire is a an actual remote amp wire. It will turn your amp off, you know this because your amp is powered off when you look at it an the radio is off. Just like when you turn the radio on, the amp powers up.

The reason for the pop is that the radio is shutting down faster than your amp. Part of this is because the remote amp wire slowly drops to 0 volts. While the radio shuts off quicker.

I think a pull down resistor would fix the problem, but I haven't tried it.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
Doesn't the pull down resistor change the voltage? I've seen it used when an aftermarket head unit sends 12v to an amp that's expecting 5v.

In our case we'd need the reverse? I believe most aftermarket amps require 12v remote. Not sure what our factory head unit is sending.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:51 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by patroklai View Post
Your amp gains are too high. Set them to the middle or lower and crank the volume on your head unit.
Okay thanks man!
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:35 PM   #92
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So I found this LOC on ebay for $25 but they say a button is missing, can I still just get this harness since the loc part won't actually be used?

I'm finally buying everything I need. Also, do I need to buy ZISL harnesses or is the GM44 the only thing I need?? Plus extra wiring for speakers and such...
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:13 AM   #93
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Update on my install... Installed using the ZISLs and the harness and ditched the PAC LOC. Had all kinds of problems with the rear channel. Had a bad ZISL. Then split signal from front ZISL and all is good. My 4 channel amp has a rca out that feeds my sub amp. All was well until I drove the car hard. Upon acceleration, electric noise entered the speakers. It's like as if it was possessed. I turned off the radio but could not get this demonic sound to stop. I turned off the car to make it stop.

I'll be installing the PAC LOC tomorrow as I think my amp does not like the high level input. I made sure my grounds and power all look good. I also use a capacitor and have ran aftermarket setups many times in the past. However, this is my first time attempting to do it using a factory head unit that does not support amp pre outs. Aaaah
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:18 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patroklai View Post
Update on my install... Installed using the ZISLs and the harness and ditched the PAC LOC. Had all kinds of problems with the rear channel. Had a bad ZISL. Then split signal from front ZISL and all is good. My 4 channel amp has a rca out that feeds my sub amp. All was well until I drove the car hard. Upon acceleration, electric noise entered the speakers. It's like as if it was possessed. I turned off the radio but could not get this demonic sound to stop. I turned off the car to make it stop.

I'll be installing the PAC LOC tomorrow as I think my amp does not like the high level input. I made sure my grounds and power all look good. I also use a capacitor and have ran aftermarket setups many times in the past. However, this is my first time attempting to do it using a factory head unit that does not support amp pre outs. Aaaah
Not all amps allows for a high level input. I still wouldn't use the PAC LOC. There are good LOCs and the PAC isn't one of them.

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Old 06-15-2014, 03:28 PM   #95
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Used the LOC and car sounds the same or better that with the ZISL. The ZISLs weren't bad. Apparently my head unit had messed up rear channels but was able to get signal from front to feed my whole system. All is good now. If anyone needs ZISLs shoot me a PM.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:00 PM   #96
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Im having the same problems man. I dont know if i got bad zisl's or what. Im not having any problem with the rear speakers. only the fronts. They work fine until i turn it up about halfway then the fronts start making horrible popping sounds and cutting in and out. I guess im gonna ditch the zisl's and try the pac loc for now just to try and figure out what the problem is.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:22 PM   #97
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I agree. Do that and update the thread..
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:44 PM   #98
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So I bought the LOC and the rest of the stuff needed, then cut the harness, soldered all the wires, connected everything to the stock HU, ran the wires to the trunk, hooked up the amps and turned on the car to test everything. Music played fine but the screen on the mylink stereo won't turn on.

I call PAC technical support only to find out the LOC is not compatible with my car.

Is it possible to splice in to the rear speakers with speaker wire to rca harness (no loc) and then split the rca signal for a 4 channel amp? Kinda what patroklai did.
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