Convertible Audio Details

[thorr]

Thanks a lot for the information. I will probably just make my own mount, and maybe I can find a way to recess it a bit.

Can you explain about the speaker wiring to the sub? Did you run your own wires or use the factory wires, and if so where do the wires run to? Thanks again!

[Steve@Subthump]

you cannot recess a speaker in there unless it's smaller than the hole or you cut the hole larger. You should just get our mount and save yourself the hassle. I spent like 2.5 days on that mount getting it perfect but do what you like.

[pony]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

you cannot recess a speaker in there unless it's smaller than the hole or you cut the hole larger. You should just get our mount and save yourself the hassle. I spent like 2.5 days on that mount getting it perfect but do what you like.

I can't believe the emails I get asking about my subthumb install. People are crazy trying to save a couple of bucks to circumvent the harness and mount that you spents days or weeks perfecting. I had NO previous stereo install experience, and my install went fine (especially with the secret "hints" you supply on order). I too just tell them to save themselves the hassle and buy the kit, but ultimately they can "do what they want, but have been warned" Thanks for the harness and vert kit again.

PS I do have the amp side mount for the vert that will never get used if someone is wanting to make an offer.

[thorr]

Thanks. I am not trying to save a couple of bucks and I am not one of the people who emailed you. I placed an order yesterday for the amp harness (hoping to purchase before they ran out) and the amp mount and debated a long time about the subwoofer mount. I am trying to make sure it will fit. It looks like the ******** mount has a ridge on it around the hole where the speaker is mounted making it higher than the flat surface everywhere else. This makes the mounted speaker even taller. I was thinking of doing the opposite and cutting a hole that is bigger than the outside of the speaker and having a second layer below that with a smaller hole that the speaker would screw into. As long as there is enough depth in the cavity and enough room around the edge to recess the speaker into the hole, this should work. Since I don't have my car yet, I don't know for sure. I can always buy the subwoofer mount later if it doesn't work out.

I hope that I will receive the secret "hints" since I did place an order for the harness even though I didn't buy the mount.

Mike

[ToddB]

Just one note u only have about 6" depth for your subwoofer. So if you recess it take that into account. Also I have been doing stereo installs for over 20 years so the easy way is to buy steaves stuff. I even used his amp harness because for the price it was not worth the trouble of me doing it myself. I also cut up the steel of the car to make a completly enclosed .7 cu ft enclosure for my sub but it took 40 plus hrs of work. I ran my own wire threw the trunk from my new amp to the sub.

[Steve@Subthump]

There is actually quite a bit of space between the sub's surround and the plastic guard. I have had some relatively beefy 10s installed in my car. If all else fails, you can remove it. All it does is keep the mesh part of the seat pushed forward but if nobody's back there it will stay on it's own.

[thorr]

Thanks again!

[pnyklr]

I know Steve has been busy but has anyone done anymore audio work on their vert?

-Funk

[shl4Z28]

Originally Posted by pnyklr

I know Steve has been busy but has anyone done anymore audio work on their vert?

-Funk

+1

[Steve@Subthump]

Been working on a couple ways to get two 12s in the back. Not really an easy task though. I really enjoy my stealthbox setup though and hate having to take it all out to mock up something else:(

[kansasbudd]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

nothing in the back of a vert will work in a coupe. Totally different. Below are some pics. 1st pic is stock side panel with the stock 3.5" speaker and the 2nd pic is an aftermarket. We want to offer two different options. The first option being a direct fit replacement like the ones shown. Those are infinty but we may have a couple brands to offer. The fit is perfect though. The second option is that we want to fab up some mounts to install larger speakers. I think 5.25" speakers will fit but there will be some cutting involved to make that work. So it just depends whether you want to take that leap or not. I'm also tyring to find a quick connect harness like we did with the front speakers since the 3.5" speaker has a different connector on it.

PS I'm also pretty close to showing off the first of our trunk sub boxes too.

Steve,

As I am anxiously awaiting my ordered harness I wanted to get your thoughts on speakers. I'd like to upgrade all around with higher-end BA's. Crutchfield says the the BA 3 1/2" does not fit in the rear side panels, only a JL Audio. Did you notice a depth issue when going with these Infinitys? Also, I currently own a (10 yr old) Planet Audio Amp (P704) - 70x4 @ 100 db and less than 0.02% THD...good specs, but only 4 channel. Question, when installing the harness (FARK) is the stock sub wiring pulling power from both the rear channels? and also powering the rear sides? Am I better off with the JL Audio 5 channel (dedicated sub channel) amp? Is this a confusing question?
Any thoughts, comments, advice and guidance is appreciated.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by kansasbudd

Steve,

As I am anxiously awaiting my ordered harness I wanted to get your thoughts on speakers. I'd like to upgrade all around with higher-end BA's. Crutchfield says the the BA 3 1/2" does not fit in the rear side panels, only a JL Audio. Did you notice a depth issue when going with these Infinitys? Also, I currently own a (10 yr old) Planet Audio Amp (P704) - 70x4 @ 100 db and less than 0.02% THD...good specs, but only 4 channel. Question, when installing the harness (FARK) is the stock sub wiring pulling power from both the rear channels? and also powering the rear sides? Am I better off with the JL Audio 5 channel (dedicated sub channel) amp? Is this a confusing question?
Any thoughts, comments, advice and guidance is appreciated.

Depth behind the speaker didn't seem to be an issue as I recall. The real issue is the depth from where the speaker mounts to the side panel to the grille that snaps over top of it. The speakers I used had protruding tweeters, but I made them work. I simply bent the mounting tabs upward to sink the speaker in further.

As far as the amp kit, Keep in mind that even though our fark kit still interfaces the connector the same, there are subtle differences in where those wires go between the coupe and vert. To simplify things I like to think of the boston amp as a 7 channel amp with different crossover points for the individual channels. In the coupe there are basically 4 rear channels. Two for tweeters and two for the midrange 6x9's. You can call these two subs if you like, but still 4 channels. In the vert, there are still 4 rear channels. The same 4 channels as the coupe, but different crossover points. The speakers next to the rear seat are two channels and the sub is two channels. The boston subwoober is dual coil so it is essentially using both rear channels to power it. In other words it's not like there is one high output channel for the sub. I would venture to guess that the sub is only getting less than 100w anyhow.

If you want my opinion on amps, it really doesn't matter if you use a 4 channel and monoblock or a 5 channel. However, I prefer using two amps because if you have a 5 channel amp and have to remove it to get it repaired or what not, then you have no music at all. Also, typical 5th channel sub channels are not that much power. Maybe 300-400watts. So you want to run more power to the sub, then a 5 channel is pretty much useless anyhow. But the arguement can go either way, so I leave it up to the individual how they want to amp their system.

[emsguy]

sounds like this is going to be the system to get. please let us know when we can order one and I will try to be first in line.

[kansasbudd]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

Depth behind the speaker didn't seem to be an issue as I recall. The real issue is the depth from where the speaker mounts to the side panel to the grille that snaps over top of it. The speakers I used had protruding tweeters, but I made them work. I simply bent the mounting tabs upward to sink the speaker in further.

As far as the amp kit, Keep in mind that even though our fark kit still interfaces the connector the same, there are subtle differences in where those wires go between the coupe and vert. To simplify things I like to think of the boston amp as a 7 channel amp with different crossover points for the individual channels. In the coupe there are basically 4 rear channels. Two for tweeters and two for the midrange 6x9's. You can call these two subs if you like, but still 4 channels. In the vert, there are still 4 rear channels. The same 4 channels as the coupe, but different crossover points. The speakers next to the rear seat are two channels and the sub is two channels. The boston subwoober is dual coil so it is essentially using both rear channels to power it. In other words it's not like there is one high output channel for the sub. I would venture to guess that the sub is only getting less than 100w anyhow.

If you want my opinion on amps, it really doesn't matter if you use a 4 channel and monoblock or a 5 channel. However, I prefer using two amps because if you have a 5 channel amp and have to remove it to get it repaired or what not, then you have no music at all. Also, typical 5th channel sub channels are not that much power. Maybe 300-400watts. So you want to run more power to the sub, then a 5 channel is pretty much useless anyhow. But the arguement can go either way, so I leave it up to the individual how they want to amp their system.

Thanks for the response Steve. I guess with the FARK in hand and thanks to its expected simplicity I will be able to try some different options.