New tires--any recommendations?

[Frank in MD]

Originally Posted by OKCINFERNO

I have Had Nitto 420s and firestone destination st on mine and they are also good all season rain/snow tires

Yeah, I'm about to get a set of the NT420S. Hope they're good....

[SSpartan117]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Just generally . . .

Choose your tires by description to match your driving needs (various levels of performance summer or all-season, touring, winter driving, etc.), but buy the best performance within that segment that you can reasonably afford. Better to stretch a few $ than cheap out. All other tire qualities become secondary on those rare occasions where you need all of the grip you can find. Trust Tire Rack's own tests better than opinions submitted by the majority of their customers.

As long as you keep the tires properly inflated and the car in proper alignment, you ought to be getting at least 12,000 miles per 100 treadwear from brand new to the wear bars.

Know that proper inflation and proper alignment FOR YOU, INDIVIDUALLY may not match Chevy's suggested/recommended numbers.

The easy recommendation is Michelin's Pilot All-Season Plus.


Norm

I had Michelin's on my truck and LOVED them... So comfortable and quiet. However, I don't think they are available in our sizes. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the only Michelin's we can rock (for stock rims) are the SUV ones.

[gramps_green_rs]

TOYO PROXI 4'S also seem to be a good choice\

gramps

[Rickey]

I have the Goodyears and love them.

[union894]

nitto 420s, I have put 7k miles on them and they are like new. They have good ride and low road noise , not to mention they stick to the road good. I think they are a 50k-60k mile warranty. Good luck

[RickRay]

Originally Posted by Goober

Larger UTQG also means LESS sticky.

I got BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 and am happy with them so far.

Here's a good site for description of tires:
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...010&vid=016070
More Info: Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) Uniform Tire Quality Grading is a relative comparison system. Tires are graded by manufacturers in three areas: treadwear, traction and temperature.

The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear of a tire when tested carefully under controlled conditions. For example, a tire graded 400 should have its useful tread last twice as long as a tire graded 200. Treadwear grades are only valid for comparisons within a manufacturer's product line.

Traction grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on asphalt and concrete test surfaces. As of 1997, the traction grades from highest to lowest are "AA","A","B" and "C". The grades do not take into consideration the cornering or turning performance of a tire.

Temperature grades represent a tire's resistance to heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled laboratory test conditions. The grades from highest to lowest are "A","B" and "C" . The grade "C" corresponds to the minimum performance required by federal safety standard.

[Ir0nM4n]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Just generally . . .

Choose your tires by description to match your driving needs (various levels of performance summer or all-season, touring, winter driving, etc.), but buy the best performance within that segment that you can reasonably afford. Better to stretch a few $ than cheap out. All other tire qualities become secondary on those rare occasions where you need all of the grip you can find. Trust Tire Rack's own tests better than opinions submitted by the majority of their customers.

As long as you keep the tires properly inflated and the car in proper alignment, you ought to be getting at least 12,000 miles per 100 treadwear from brand new to the wear bars.

Know that proper inflation and proper alignment FOR YOU, INDIVIDUALLY may not match Chevy's suggested/recommended numbers.

The easy recommendation is Michelin's Pilot All-Season Plus.


Norm

Drive it like you stole it with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, but not to far as you may experiance tread loss...

[Rudy@Tirerack]

Depends what your looking for but it you want a long wear tire with decent treadlife and wet performance that you can drive in light snow then the Gmax have a great reputation on these cars.

Comp-2's and of course Michelin Super Sports are sportier summer tires but wear faster.

[jphillips589]

thank you all! the nitto's are just so dang expensive :/

[Norm Peterson]

Dirt-cheap, compared to Michelin PS2's, though.

Blame the appearance-driven trend to 18" and larger wheels for this.


Norm

[Rhyder]

I think I am going with the Nitto Motivo, anyone on here who just bought tires or is looking know of any deals currently?

[hworth18]

I have these and love them!!!

Continental Extreme Contact DWS = UTQG: 540 A A (All Season)

Yes, they are pricey, but rated at 54k miles so I'll get almost twice the mileage as the Pirellis and excellent performance.

[BowlingSS]

Originally Posted by Goober

Larger UTQG also means LESS sticky.

I got BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 and am happy with them so far.

I wished I could still get the BFG. They are no longer made.

Bill

[Rhyder]

Originally Posted by Goober

Larger UTQG also means LESS sticky.

I got BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 and am happy with them so far.

Ive heard the same thing often, about less sticky....

Whats that mean in realistic terms?

as an example, taken from the list.

you have a high UTQG:

Nitto Motivo = UTQG: 560 A A (All Season)

and a low UTQG:

Perilli P Zero = UTQG: 220 AA A (Summer Only)


They both have an A temp grade which means they are rated at "Over 115 MPH" the highest rating. Way fast enough for everyday use.

Where they differ is the A traction and the AA traction. the first and second highest rating.

Traction:

_____________Asphalt G force____Concrete Gforce
AA---Above-------0.54---------------0.41
A----Above-------0.47----------------0.35

So when you state the higher the UTQG the less sticky it is, you are technically correct. But it appears to me going from one extreme to the other on the list, and as most roads are asphalt, your talking a difference of .07 G force difference between the two.

Is that even really measurable? I mean if you were doing the road Atlanta race, maybe, but who drags or races seriously with regular tires?


It seems to me to be basically propaganda to get us to accept buying tires that wear out quicker, replacing them more often, and paying more for them, when the longer lasting and cheaper ones are just as good for all practical purposes.....you have to have the best of the best right?


I may be missing something, I'm in no way a tire engineer, I'm simply going off the charts provided.