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Old 10-11-2016, 02:30 AM   #1
LCPLPunk
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Found Z/28 trailing arms on Amazon, will they fit my 2010 SS?

Hey guys,

So while looking on Amazon I found what appears to be Z28 trailing arms for about 35 bucks each side. This seems like a pretty good deal so I'm wondering these will work for my 2010 Camaro SS..

https://www.amazon.com/23104900-Susp...o+trailing+arm

Would this be an upgrade?
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:37 AM   #2
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I'll sell you a 1LE FE6 bits.

Lower control arms.
Trailing arm
Toe rod.
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Old 10-11-2016, 10:57 AM   #3
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How many miles? How are the bushings? Where are you located?
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:13 PM   #4
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Yes, they will fit. They are a bolt and go.
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:34 PM   #5
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Would this be a good upgrade, or would I be wanting something like BMR arms/etc.?
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R2C CAI / Apex Scoop / VMAX Ported TB / Speed Engineering LTHs / X-pipe / GPI port/rod-mod intake manifold / Circle D 3200 278mm Converter / 3.91 gears / DynoSteve tuned / 1LE Shocks/Struts/Toe Links / ZL1 Rear Sway Bar / Z/28 Trailing arms / Prothane Radius Arm & Subframe Bushings / BMR UCA Bracket, Steering rack bushing / B&M Tranny Cooler / RX Catch Can / Jannetty Tranny Dipstick / 2012+ Heater Hose / 2013+ Rearview Mirror / Fuel rail flip / Drake shifter / Oil Cooler Delete
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:56 AM   #6
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Depends on your application and how hard you push the car. Considering the Z/28 is a track-oriented car, if you don't track your car then you're probably fine with the Z/28 trailing arms, or even the ones you have now (I believe the trailing arms and bushings are the same from the V6 up to the ZL1/1LE). If your car is fairly stock but you run the track occasionally then the Z/28 might be worth the money, and if you have a full-out track car (lots of power and/or big brakes) then aftermarket might be worth it (although the Z/28 has lots of power and huge brakes, so even then the Z/28 ones would probably suffice).
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:51 AM   #7
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I've got a street car but looking to reduce wheel hop. I know the aftermarket ones are better, but I can get the Z28 ones shipped from Amazon for $100 total, however I'm paying almost half that in shipping for others. :P
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:30 PM   #8
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The easiest way to reduce wheel hop is to get an alignment. Set the rear Camber to -0.50 or less and the Toe IN to 0.12 per side. Instant wheel hop reduction. Set the front Toe to 0.00 and Camber to -1.25 and it will drive and handle better.
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:31 PM   #9
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How much faster will I eat through tires? And if I get an alignment I might as well add the alignment necessary stuff, i.e. toe rods, etc, right?
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:58 PM   #10
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What do you mean by necessary? If you mean things actually required for aligning the wheels then what you need would depend on your current configuration and what kind of alignment you're looking for. For -0.5° camber in the rear you don't need anything unless you're lowered too much (since lowering will increase negative camber; not sure how much is too much), in which case you may want to get after market eccentric bolts (cheap) to replace the factory ones which will allow for greater adjustment, and if those aren't enough then you would need an adjustable control arm (not so cheap).

Toe adjustability is more than enough from the factory.

Regarding caster and steering axis inclination (SAI), JusticePete and others can tell you a lot more than I can, and in your case if you're just looking to reduce wheel hop then you don't necessarily need to consider these, but they may be of interest to you none the less. Basically, having a greater positive caster allows the wheels to centre easier/faster after turning, and a greater SAI helps keeps the front wheels pointing forward to improve stability. Caster is not adjustable from the factory, and so you actually need to create your own elongated hole by drilling out the hole for the radius rod bushing bolt, and SAI isn't adjustable unless you install camber plates (these can also adjust caster, or camber and caster at the same time).

JusticePete's website talks about this stuff and a few google searches will find you lots of info too if you're so inclined.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:52 PM   #11
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Sorry, should have been more specific. So some things I can replace, i.e. trailing arms don't require an alignment after. If I am going to get an alignment then the things that require an alignment, i.e. toe rods, I might as well upgrade while i'm there. Make sense?
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:17 AM   #12
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I guess it makes sense to do multiple things at once, especially if you're going to do them anyway. So far on my suspension I've done only sway bars and links but next year I'm planning to do the kablammo with springs, shocks, certain arms and bushings, and maybe even caster plates, and then of course finish with an alignment; this way everything is done at once and so everything stays more balanced and you don't need multiple alignments.
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Old 10-14-2016, 06:49 AM   #13
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The way to get around multiple alignment cost are to find a Firestone Service Center or a Goodyear Center and get a "Lifetime Alignment Package" less than 200 bucks or you can catch them on sale for like 140. With these packages you can have your car aligned anytime, I try and do mine 3 times to quarterly a year an of course when I do suspension work. A four wheel alignment is not cheap in itself.
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:57 AM   #14
LCPLPunk
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olblue, great advice! I do have a Firestone only a few miles away from me and even better it's about 1/4 mile from where I work. I think I'll wait until there is a sale though because here in Hawaii the lifetime alignment is like $160.
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R2C CAI / Apex Scoop / VMAX Ported TB / Speed Engineering LTHs / X-pipe / GPI port/rod-mod intake manifold / Circle D 3200 278mm Converter / 3.91 gears / DynoSteve tuned / 1LE Shocks/Struts/Toe Links / ZL1 Rear Sway Bar / Z/28 Trailing arms / Prothane Radius Arm & Subframe Bushings / BMR UCA Bracket, Steering rack bushing / B&M Tranny Cooler / RX Catch Can / Jannetty Tranny Dipstick / 2012+ Heater Hose / 2013+ Rearview Mirror / Fuel rail flip / Drake shifter / Oil Cooler Delete
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