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Old 07-11-2011, 09:02 AM   #127
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I'm thinking going 18's as well now too. I would hate to order another set of 17's and find another brand has the same issues.
Yes, this seems like the only feasible solution for now, until someone like BMR makes a LCA specifically designed for the 17's. (wait, isn't that what the Spohn arms were supposedly designed for?!?!.....until they changed their description!!). Anyway, is there anyone that makes a 28" tall front skinny in a 18" wheel diameter? I think we're stuck going with 17" fronts.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:06 AM   #128
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Thought about it that also, but running slicks and one hard launch and goodbye studs...scary thought.

I just don't feel I need to be modifying anything to get a marketed wheel to fit without issue.
i agree 100% but when you get lemons... well if you make lemonade you still have something out of it and if you throw them you feel better sooo... ya. it seems like a huge pain in the ass but if your allready invested then you might as well finish up with some small spacers and some Pfadt extended racing wheel studs. They allow for up to a 15mm spacer and still have adiwuate thread hold. I would contact Pfadt with your info (track times, hp, tq, tires size, spacer size) and ask if they will hold up to what you pushing and the power you plan on pushing later. And save all your emails if they say yes that way you can send in a copy IF they do break since as we all know ANY stud can break under a hard launch.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:50 AM   #129
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So now the question is who makes an 18" drag slick? And who wants to buy a very slightly used set of 17" x 10" Welds?
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:59 AM   #130
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I already have the Spohn notched arms...

Spohn arms have LESS clearance then stock arms. Promise. Get out the grinder. Look for my5 page thread on the spohn arms. They're easy to make work
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:01 AM   #131
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147837

There's lots of pics in there, and you can easily see the finished notch on the arm towards the end of the thread. My welds no longer touch
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:31 AM   #132
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147837

There's lots of pics in there, and you can easily see the finished notch on the arm towards the end of the thread. My welds no longer touch
Is your car lowered? And if so, how much? I couldn't even make the car move the interference was so bad with the car lowered.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:33 AM   #133
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It isn't, but we took enough off the arms at the notch that its impossible for the wheel to hit it at any point in the suspension arc, lowered or not. They're VERY beefy, so don't be afraid to remove material
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:59 PM   #134
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no 18in slicks..
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:17 PM   #135
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no 18in slicks..
But plenty of good 18" drag radials! (Better than nothin' I suppose!)
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:23 PM   #136
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But plenty of good 18" drag radials! (Better than nothin' I suppose!)
well been running the mh drs...not hooking well...jenetty says the m6 cars really need slicks to get good soft non shock launches and powershifting 2nd needs some soft sidewall...so i,m dumping drs, and going slicks...have not yet been able to shift hard into 2nd without spinning..i see you have the m6 so i,m trying to save you $$$, you prob might change your mind
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:34 PM   #137
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I have the Spohn lower control arms and they rubbed with my daily driver 20" wheels and the first thing I did was cut a notch and reweld them and they look like new and I now have zero clearance issues. I agree Spohn should change their info description but they were intended as a stock replacement piece and anytime you modify your car from stock in any fashion, unless each piece is designed to fit the new modded setup, you are going to run into issues with fitment. This is all part of hot rodding and how you adapt to each situation is what hot rodding is about for me, adapting to whatever situation comes up and desigining a great idea to fix the issue at hand.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:49 PM   #138
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well been running the mh drs...not hooking well...jenetty says the m6 cars really need slicks to get good soft non shock launches and powershifting 2nd needs some soft sidewall...so i,m dumping drs, and going slicks...have not yet been able to shift hard into 2nd without spinning..i see you have the m6 so i,m trying to save you $$$, you prob might change your mind
Well, I do appreciate the very educated suggestion. However, for me, I don't really ever plan on pushing the HP levels you are. I'm going to stay N/A and hopefully someday, just put a good "thumpy" cam in it. Probably not going to get real serious about drag racing either, maybe just a few weekends a year. So, with your supercharger and all, I can definitely see how your car might need some slicks. I certainly hope you find something that works for you. I know there is no one better to listen to than Jannetty!!!
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:16 AM   #139
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I have the Spohn lower control arms and they rubbed with my daily driver 20" wheels and the first thing I did was cut a notch and reweld them and they look like new and I now have zero clearance issues. I agree Spohn should change their info description but they were intended as a stock replacement piece and anytime you modify your car from stock in any fashion, unless each piece is designed to fit the new modded setup, you are going to run into issues with fitment. This is all part of hot rodding and how you adapt to each situation is what hot rodding is about for me, adapting to whatever situation comes up and desigining a great idea to fix the issue at hand.

Did you have the arms from Spohn that were designed for 17" like these:
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Old 07-13-2011, 11:42 AM   #140
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Well, I spoke with Weld (Jay and Gregory) on the phone night before last and they said they are going to work with me to make things right. They also said I am the first person they have heard with this kind of clearance issues. They seemed genuine so I am going to try and work with them on discovering why mine interferes even at the stock ride height with the notched Spohn lower control arms. It may be some time that I can look into this further as I have an oil leak that has me out of commission for a short period (I may have to replace the block). I will continue to report here any findings and/or results of my conversation with Weld.

-Simster
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