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Old 10-23-2014, 12:03 PM   #99
Lil' Nasty
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
Think I am going to have to recommend this intake on any LLT cars running the IPF SC. I'm in the middle of taking parts off that were used to combat the heatsoak issues of the LLT manifold and the car feels stronger. I'm switching back to the stock IAT since my current location is causing too much timing to be added.

Tomorrow looks like a good day for the final attempt at 12's. Over the winter I am going to an even smaller pulley and 3.91 gears.
How much was everything to switch intakes?
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Old 10-23-2014, 12:47 PM   #100
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How much was everything to switch intakes?
Around $700 I think is the quote I got from Jason, I haven't technically bought the intake yet, but I am tomorrow. The gains on the top end are nearly the same as the LLT, it is the bottom end that is better. Unless you were to port the cylinder heads, don't think porting the LFX manifold will make a difference. Also could change the intake valve duration, but who knows if we will ever get that ability.

NA cars will see a bigger difference from porting since we are shoving air.

The drive back to work was fun, at one point in second gear it felt like the front end was lifting. It has good top end power, the low end and shifting needs work.

Also, I have hex vents and the drip pans are nearly touching the manifold.
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Old 10-23-2014, 02:16 PM   #101
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How much was everything to switch intakes?

Been trying to find part #s

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Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab View Post
I've got a lot of people asking me if I plan on selling "kits" to put an LFX intake onto the LLT engines. Everything to do this is all available as off the shelf parts from GM, anyone get order it themselves either at a local dealer, or any online discount gm parts store. Here is what you would need:

2012 Camaro Upper intake manifold
2012 Traverse Lower intake manifold piece
4ea bolts that hold the upper and lower intake together
2012 Traverse intake gasket kit
The 6 bolts from the Camaro that hold the intake assy to the engine
2012 Camaro Purge solenoid
2012 Camaro purge solenoid hardline
2012 Camaro PCV (the catch can) hardline
2012 Camaro MAP sensor (just to plug the hole, or you can make your own plug and not buy that).

GM list price is close to $900 for all of these parts, if you shop around online, plan on spending between about $625 and $700 depending on where you get the parts from.
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:08 PM   #102
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Holy f*** the lower Al part of the intake manifold costs just as much as the composite!
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:17 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
Around $700 I think is the quote I got from Jason, I haven't technically bought the intake yet, but I am tomorrow. The gains on the top end are nearly the same as the LLT, it is the bottom end that is better. Unless you were to port the cylinder heads, don't think porting the LFX manifold will make a difference. Also could change the intake valve duration, but who knows if we will ever get that ability.

NA cars will see a bigger difference from porting since we are shoving air.

The drive back to work was fun, at one point in second gear it felt like the front end was lifting. It has good top end power, the low end and shifting needs work.

Also, I have hex vents and the drip pans are nearly touching the manifold.
I don't know, if you're trying to lean it out further, porting the LFX manifold is something you should probably consider...
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:14 PM   #104
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Yup... The upper and lower intake pieces are the meat and potatoes of your funds... The rest is mostly nickel and dime crap. I'm still searching for one part number (I just happened to have the part so I sent it to Magnum, but don't know the # or how much it is...) I'll try to post everything I have tonight.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:50 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
Around $700 I think is the quote I got from Jason, I haven't technically bought the intake yet, but I am tomorrow. The gains on the top end are nearly the same as the LLT, it is the bottom end that is better. Unless you were to port the cylinder heads, don't think porting the LFX manifold will make a difference. Also could change the intake valve duration, but who knows if we will ever get that ability.

NA cars will see a bigger difference from porting since we are shoving air.

The drive back to work was fun, at one point in second gear it felt like the front end was lifting. It has good top end power, the low end and shifting needs work.

Also, I have hex vents and the drip pans are nearly touching the manifold.
Do you mean FI?
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:45 PM   #106
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will do this once i get a confirmation on IPS TT kit for LLT.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:55 AM   #107
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Do you mean FI?
The FI cars won't see much of a difference on the top end since air is still being forced. I'm part of the FI group so that is why I said we. The lower end will be helped a lot, car revs faster. Plus you get a PCV valve on the manifold that doesn't require a bracket to hold in place. The car just feels more consistent with this intake, the other one had its good days and bad days.

I think NA cars will see a difference but there are no LLT cars around me that run worth a damn. The LFX guys run good times though.

Jason, will the part number be on the lower manifold? I can take it off tonight after I run to check. Also, do you want to see my Stage 4 Ported Intake? See what the true story is.
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:52 AM   #108
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Been reading on the MazdaSpeed 3 forums all morning long since they have Direct Injection engines that have been boosted longer than ours. Since DI cools the charge faster due to high pressure mist coming out, our AFR needs to be about 0.95 lambda, but you can't get that without knocking. Right now mine runs 0.92 lambda with 5 degrees of knock, going to start spraying a little meth again to control the detonation. As long as I don't go past 0.85 I'm good. These AFR's will freak some people out because these are 12-14 ratios. I'm using 10% ethanol so math is: 14.08 x (Lambda). For 100% gas use 14.7 x (Lambda). I'm now running very small nozzles, last time at the track I was running too big and was too rich, destroying power even though I had my best runs. This is one of the reason I wanted to go that Sunday when it was warm, less people at the track and I can adjust my meth spray.

I don't know how busy the track will be tonight but I am going to try to get there early to make runs before people show up.
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:33 PM   #109
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Jason, will the part number be on the lower manifold? I can take it off tonight after I run to check. Also, do you want to see my Stage 4 Ported Intake? See what the true story is.
The part number I need is for the one short bolt that attaches the intake manifold. The parts guy could only find the one for the long bolts.

No need to see your old intake. I have 2 stock LLT intakes here, I've had a stage 3 here, and I've seen pictures of the stage 4. That's really all I need(ed) to see. After a lot of thought, I decided I don't really want to get into porting LLT intakes.

Attached below is the parts quote with all of the part numbers (except the bolt, but I hand wrote a price guess for the bolt at the bottom). Price shows GM list, and what I would pay my dealer. The cheapest I've found online so far is gmpartscenter.net, for $625 and change, only 8.95 shipping, but that didn't include the gasket set, or the missing bolt.

The 6 bolts that hold the intake to the heads can obviously be sourced elsewhere to shave some $$ off the price. The MAP sensor is only recommended as the hole for it must be plugged, and some plugs (threaded, expansion, etc) could possible ruin the hole and not allow the map sensor to be inserted and seal in the even of you take it off and try to sell it to joe-schmoe that has an LFX and he get's screwed. If you never plan on taking it off, save yourself $30 bucks, and screw a pipe plug into it with some silicone and hope it stays put.
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:50 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
Been reading on the MazdaSpeed 3 forums all morning long since they have Direct Injection engines that have been boosted longer than ours. Since DI cools the charge faster due to high pressure mist coming out, our AFR needs to be about 0.95 lambda, but you can't get that without knocking. Right now mine runs 0.92 lambda with 5 degrees of knock, going to start spraying a little meth again to control the detonation. As long as I don't go past 0.85 I'm good. These AFR's will freak some people out because these are 12-14 ratios. I'm using 10% ethanol so math is: 14.08 x (Lambda). For 100% gas use 14.7 x (Lambda). I'm now running very small nozzles, last time at the track I was running too big and was too rich, destroying power even though I had my best runs. This is one of the reason I wanted to go that Sunday when it was warm, less people at the track and I can adjust my meth spray.

I don't know how busy the track will be tonight but I am going to try to get there early to make runs before people show up.
Yeah, they are 9.5:1 CR, so they can run a bit leaner than us. Despite what Trifecta kept saying, our engines don't "like it rich," they just pull less timing. The solution is to run a lower CR and leaner mix. Or run race gas. Or upgrade the fuel pumps and run E85.
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:01 PM   #111
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Yeah, they are 9.5:1 CR, so they can run a bit leaner than us. Despite what Trifecta kept saying, our engines don't "like it rich," they just pull less timing. The solution is to run a lower CR and leaner mix. Or run race gas. Or upgrade the fuel pumps and run E85.
I would love to run E85, but don't think IPF would tune for it. Meth injection allows me to run more timing but I end up too rich. One thing with this manifold is that the lower part is tall enough for meth nozzles. Might see about doing a direct port meth injection for detonation control.

Going to keep working on my V6, I want to get into the mid 11's like your car.
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:07 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab View Post
The part number I need is for the one short bolt that attaches the intake manifold. The parts guy could only find the one for the long bolts.

No need to see your old intake. I have 2 stock LLT intakes here, I've had a stage 3 here, and I've seen pictures of the stage 4. That's really all I need(ed) to see. After a lot of though, I decided I don't really want to get into porting LLT intakes.

Attached below is the parts quote with all of the part numbers (except the bolt, but I hand wrote a price guess for the bolt at the bottom). Price shows GM list, and what I would pay my dealer. The cheapest I've found online so far is gmpartscenter.net, for $625 and change, only 8.95 shipping, but that didn't include the gasket set, or the missing bolt.

The 6 bolts that hold the intake to the heads can obviously be sourced elsewhere to shave some $$ off the price. The MAP sensor is only recommended as the hole for it must be plugged, and some plugs (threaded, expansion, etc) could possible ruin the hole and not allow the map sensor to be inserted and seal in the even of you take it off and try to sell it to joe-schmoe that has an LFX and he get's screwed. If you never plan on taking it off, save yourself $30 bucks, and screw a pipe plug into it with some silicone and hope it stays put.
I think that rear bolt you sent me is the same size as the front bolt on the LLT.

I actually think you can use that MAP sensor on some gauges that are sold. I remember seeing one gauge that used a GM map.
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