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Old 05-28-2013, 10:30 PM   #1
ChadG

 
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TPS Reset Needed?

So despite the "how to" that was nicely posted on how to Seafoam your engine I decided to let my dealer do an upper induction service. On the drive home the throttle response felt soft, and when punching it the engine would bog down and then race back up.

Once the engine picks back up it runs just as strong as always, there is just an initial very noticeable bogging down after mashing the pedal.

I'm thinking when they cleaned the throttle body it needs to be reset? Is this the proper procedure? It seems too easy - am I reading this wrong?

With the vehicle off:

1. Turn the key to the on position with the engine off for 60 seconds
2. Turn the key to the off position
3. Turn the key to the on position and clear codes?

Do you think it would be worth doing a fuse #5 & 20 pull?

I did switch back to my stock intake for this dealer visit, the car was driven with the stock intake for a few miles but that is it. I put the Vararam back on in the dealer parking lot .

Could that have something to do with it? Is my car just confuzzled?

Thanks!

Chad
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #2
rtcat600man
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I would do the throttle/idle learn. Certainly cannot hurt. Then just drive it like you did before. It will start to relearn everything. My guess it is confussed as you mentioned.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:48 PM   #3
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So I couldn't sleep and went out to my car at 5am and started messing with it. Checked for codes - it had P0113 and P0112 (IAT Sensor Circuit high/low voltage). Thinking it probably had to do with unplugging the MAF when they did the service I cleared the codes and started her up, the car then ran normal.

I drove an hour to work, checked and no codes after 2+ hours of commuting today. I did the TPS reset when I got to work after verifying I didn't throw a code during the drive, can anyone think of anything else I should have done?

Can something as simple as clearing the codes have fixed the problem? Seems weird.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:54 PM   #4
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Glad to hear that all is better now.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:58 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rtcat600man View Post
Glad to hear that all is better now.
Thanks man, it just seems bizarre that something as simple as clearing the codes would have fixed it. Can't complain, though! I have my black iceolator coming in soon and am going to buy whatever torque wrench you recommend - hopefully not one prohibitively expensive.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:42 AM   #6
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Thanks man, it just seems bizarre that something as simple as clearing the codes would have fixed it. Can't complain, though! I have my black iceolator coming in soon and am going to buy whatever torque wrench you recommend - hopefully not one prohibitively expensive.

I responded on the other thread.

http://www.sears.com/search=torque+w...e=CAT_REC_PRED

So many to choose from.

I like the 1/2 drive set-up.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-i...6&blockType=G6


all though mine is not digital. And I like Craftsman. (old school)
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:17 PM   #7
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I responded on the other thread.

http://www.sears.com/search=torque+w...e=CAT_REC_PRED

So many to choose from.

I like the 1/2 drive set-up.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-i...6&blockType=G6


all though mine is not digital. And I like Craftsman. (old school)
Thanks, saw your other post as well. I will probably do 3/8" drive since I already have all of my sockets in that. The first one you linked to was in in-lbs vs. ft-lbs any reason why? I was looking at that exact same one in ft-lbs.

Looks like I'm headed to Sears!
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:07 AM   #8
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The first link was to torque wrenches Sears has to offer. Just so happened the first one shown was the one in inch lbs.

The only issue with the 3/8 drive that I see is it won't generate the ft. lbs required for lug nuts. They need 140 ft. lbs.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadG View Post
So I couldn't sleep and went out to my car at 5am and started messing with it. Checked for codes - it had P0113 and P0112 (IAT Sensor Circuit high/low voltage). Thinking it probably had to do with unplugging the MAF when they did the service I cleared the codes and started her up, the car then ran normal.

I drove an hour to work, checked and no codes after 2+ hours of commuting today. I did the TPS reset when I got to work after verifying I didn't throw a code during the drive, can anyone think of anything else I should have done?

Can something as simple as clearing the codes have fixed the problem? Seems weird.
When the dealer re-flashed my ECU it did the same thing.
Did a fuse pull & it corrected it immediately.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:13 AM   #10
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How do you do a fuse pull....

What are the benefits to it? I have never done it....
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:53 PM   #11
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How do you do a fuse pull....

What are the benefits to it? I have never done it....
It essentially reboots your ECU. You pull fuses #5 and 20, wait an hour or so and then put them back in. You can also disconnect your battery while doing this just for good measure. I didn't have to do a fuse pull, maybe deleting the codes did something similar with the ECU?
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:00 PM   #12
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Have a 2011 Camaro SS L99, replaced the stock TB with a 102mm TB, engine lite is on, cannot reset error code is P0120 (I believe have to verify with scanning tool), requires the TBS be calibrated with the throttle pedal. Question, how is the TBS calibrated on this camaro? Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadG View Post
It essentially reboots your ECU. You pull fuses #5 and 20, wait an hour or so and then put them back in. You can also disconnect your battery while doing this just for good measure. I didn't have to do a fuse pull, maybe deleting the codes did something similar with the ECU?
I have reset my ECU after having the battery unplugged for an extended period of time. It felt weird because it was slow to relearn my driving style but after a week everything felt normal. I would think this would solve all your problems. If you pull another code in a few days something is obviously off.
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:12 AM   #14
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Thanks, saw your other post as well. I will probably do 3/8" drive since I already have all of my sockets in that. The first one you linked to was in in-lbs vs. ft-lbs any reason why? I was looking at that exact same one in ft-lbs.

Looks like I'm headed to Sears!
+1- Sears is the way to go.
3/8" drive for 10-70ft/lbs (intake manifold bolts are 18ft/lbs- same for your oil drain plug and manual trans and differential plugs).

1/2" drive (up to 150ft/lbs) for lug nuts as you said.

Wrenches with wider ranges are not as accurate.

Sears frequently puts their t.wrenches on sale for 39.95 any size and regularly are still just 49.95.
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