10-13-2016, 07:55 AM | #1 |
Drives: Zl1 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ftw Texas
Posts: 204
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About to sell my car guys. Need some help.
I know Im a garbage driver. But I dont think I have the patience or time to learn how to launch this heavy ass car. Launch control is a hilarious joke of a "feature" that didnt even work on a stock level of power. With TC off even with SUPER sticky M&H 325 DRs on 18" wheels from 22#s all the way down to 15#s in 1lb increment tests, prepped track or street, with loads of different launch RPM and different approaches I just spin spin spin or the car bogs EVERY TIME I get a solid launch. Lost to a 5.0 lastnight NOT BOOSTED with about 430hp about 3 times and that was it for me. It was an eighth and he has suspension work and full slicks so not really in my favor but STILL.
Im in full rage mode at this point. Ive spent a lot of money in the last few months getting this car where it is power wise and bought a good drag wheel/tire combo and have tried numerous things to get a handle on traction but its all just ended in frustrating losses to shit cars and having to listen to these guys brag drives me nuts.
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Rotofab CAI, 2.4 upper, 100mm metco idler, BMR ice box, fast85 inj, se headers, catless, moroso cc, mamo ls7 ported tb, ported snout, qtp cutouts, JL W7 12", JL 1k amp.
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10-13-2016, 08:16 AM | #2 |
Go Cougs!
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So what kind of help are you looking for?
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10-13-2016, 08:41 AM | #3 |
Drives: Zl1 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ftw Texas
Posts: 204
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I dont even know....im just pissed. It shouldnt be this difficult to launch a car. All the bases are covered on my end. Why is it bogging when i have a good launch every single time is really what im after. Ive come across "torque management" in the tune talk a few times. I seriously have to get this figured out or Im literally going to sell the car for a vette or if I can get a good enough deal a GTR. Ive gotten almost no reward for all the hard work and money thats gone into it besides getting to say, "ooh cool look what I have done" and getting beat by douchebags in NA 5.0s.
Any of you guys in the DFW area willing to help me narrow this down?
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Rotofab CAI, 2.4 upper, 100mm metco idler, BMR ice box, fast85 inj, se headers, catless, moroso cc, mamo ls7 ported tb, ported snout, qtp cutouts, JL W7 12", JL 1k amp.
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10-13-2016, 08:42 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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Prob have a hard time in the 1/8 regardless...auto or stick? So many variables to consider...did you drag it stock?
Many threads devoted to gettin the power to the ground...could you hook it up stock?
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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10-13-2016, 08:43 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 / 2006 TB SS Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: MN
Posts: 2,250
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Manual trans correct? How much hp? LC is worthless on a modded car. It takes a lot of practice to learn how to consistently launch a manual car and even then it's heavily dependent on track prep (and a good burnout). Did you ever take the car to the track when it was stock? If not, you have a bigger learning because it's modded. Most of the time it's a combination of slipping the clutch and applying the gas at the same; how much and how fast depends on the track. I have never had luck just dumping the clutch on this car. I'm fortunate enough to live by some empty country roads that allow me to practice launches. I use the torque app to measure 0-60 times to help work on launches. Even though street and strip require different type of launches; it's still good practice to work on consistency.
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10-13-2016, 09:29 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Convertible Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 260
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I'm having the same launching problems but I read on this forum that the bogging could be caused by not turning off traction control. I'm going to the track tomorrow and will see if this helps. What is one of your typical time slips? How is your 60' times so far? Are you a manual transmission?
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Mild to Wild Switch, Roto Fab CAI, Big Gulp, Washer Relocation, Ported Throttle Body, Rough Idle Road Race Cam, Supporting Valve Train Upgrade, Dynatech Long Tube Headers Ceramic Coated and High Flow Converters, Injector Dynamics 1025 cc, 22.5%Overdrive Balancer Pulley, Fuel Pump Voltage Booster, Moroso Catch Can.
Jannetty Installed and Tuned. 675 RWHP 630 RWTQ 11.325 1/4 Mile Time @ 124.53 MPH |
10-13-2016, 10:03 AM | #7 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: St. Charles, IL
Posts: 18,663
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Traction control off - if it bogs you have to give it more gas - if you spin like crazy a bit less gas - it pays to be brutal to your clutch as well. Just dumping it will usually result in spinning or boggin. You have to slip it a bit....
Also, a lot of people try to dump the clutch at a high rpm...try coming form a idle and working your way up. You have a roots style blower, you make good torque. Roll out soft and ease into it a bit through first. Don't shift like a grandma either (it can make a difference too). Everyone can hear a slow shift and we have good deals on transmissions. |
10-13-2016, 10:33 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1-Victory Red-Auto Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jackson TN
Posts: 1,105
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Maybe you need an automatic.
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10-13-2016, 11:53 AM | #10 |
Drives: Camaro ZL1 Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mexico
Posts: 34
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Hi, I have Hoosier slicks. Only way to launch without spinning like crazy with Launch Control, (or to avoid to lose the rear at speed higher than 120km/h) was to go up with pressure: running at 26 right now.
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10-13-2016, 12:23 PM | #11 | |
Drives: Fast Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,696
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The fastest 0-60 time set by magazines (Personally asked and read) in these cars were done from like 900-1000 RPM on launch and going from there, applying as much gas as it can handle until you're WOT. Make sure traction control is completely off, I believe it's holding the TC button for 7-10 seconds or something for best results. Practice it on back roads if you can.
I've heard that learning in low HP cars is best, so for you it would have been learning in stock form but even then 580 HP on a 315 is a bitch to get going perfectly. Don't just sell out and get a Vette because trust me, it's not going to be like "I can't drive my ZL1 but I'm going to buy a Vette and watch me turn into Schumacher". Lol, it takes years, first time at the strip in your car? You should hardly expect any great results until you have 50+ passes and are on your second clutch likely too :P. Part of the reason I don't drag race . The power mods for me are for rolling on the highway or street pulls, drag racing permanently alters your car. Quote:
Last edited by Can'tHave2MuchHP; 10-13-2016 at 12:56 PM. |
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10-13-2016, 01:20 PM | #12 | |
ZL1
Drives: 10' SS/RS - Sold; 15' White ZL1 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Harbor City, CA
Posts: 683
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Quote:
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10-13-2016, 01:48 PM | #13 | |
drinks virgil's
Drives: 2010 2SS M6 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 448
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Quote:
When you get it though, it will catch, it will hold, and it leaves hard. Practice.
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2010 2SS/RS M6 - CAI Intake - Borla Stinger - VTC - 3.91's
Eibach Sways - LG ZR28's - BMR Springs - 285/35 Squared |
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10-13-2016, 02:49 PM | #14 |
Happy_Dan
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Are you looking to build a purpose built drag racing car? The point of a ZL1 is compromise so you need to do a lot to make it work in a specific application. Get a COPO for drag racing.
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