What a beginner needs in their arsenal....

[DARK AGE 53]

Originally Posted by its a syn

What is this CG you are talking about getting supplies from?

Chemical Guys.

[axis]

Originally Posted by its a syn

What is this CG you are talking about getting supplies from?

Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53

Chemical Guys.

They have some very nice products but some aren't as effective as others. It's good to search around here for what others have used and like/dislike. They have some good deals on hardware stuff like grit guards, pads, MF towels, etc. They also give away a lot of free stuff (usually MF towels and products) with orders over varying amounts.

[DARK AGE 53]

Should have included a Bug & Tar Remover, I'm trying to remember what Paul Dalton uses for the lower part of the car......I think it's P21S, you can get in the gallon container.

One review I read goes like this,

" This stuff is extremely strong yet will not dry out paint, plastic, or rubber. You don't need to use it full strength though. If you have really nasty wheels you can try full strength or 1:1 ratio (1water:1product). Normally I use this product 8:1 8parts water to 1part product for wheels, tires, wheel wells, bugs, and tar. Try 3:1 or 4:1 if the 8:1 doesn't work for the tar, wheels, or bugs. You may have to use multiple passes. Don't get this stuff on your skin. The best part about this product is that it will not dry, dye, or stain at all. It will not turn your plastics and rubber white. No matter how many times you use it. I have a customer that I detail his cars every week. I need a product strong enough to keep his wheels completely clean while being 100 percent safe. "

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53

Is that because it called a wax?

Polish is a commonly misused term in detailing. A polish is actually the same thing as a compound, but less aggressive. A polish will remove fine scratches and haze left behind by compounds. But polishes are ABRASIVE products that level clear to provide shine.

What you are suggesting in the Tech Wax is actually a sealant. Sealants and waxes are used to protect the finish and are non-abrasive.

Hope that helps. It may sound like splitting hairs but really, polishes/compounds and waxes/sealants have absolutely nothing to do with one another.

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53

I believe Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is more abrasive then Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0, using abrasive compounds and pads results in thinner clear coat......you could end up with a split coat if you're not careful.....then again, if you do those micro fiber polishing towels will work great as a crying towel.

It would be extremely difficult to crack or burn clear coat with a DA polisher and either of those products. The amount of clear removed with a DA polisher and modern polishes and compounds is so minimal that you could compound dozens upon dozens of times and never see clear coat failure.

[ec1990]

Originally Posted by motorhead

You missed the most important thing you need in your arsenal. That's a really large check book.

Depends on your definition. For the price of 1 full detail by a detailer you can easily afford a set of interior/exterior supplies to last you for years. Now if you gotta have what's new on the block or like to try things out that's another story.

[Tecca]

Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53

Should have included a Bug & Tar Remover, I'm trying to remember what Paul Dalton uses for the lower part of the car......I think it's P21S, you can get in the gallon container.

One review I read goes like this,

" This stuff is extremely strong yet will not dry out paint, plastic, or rubber. You don't need to use it full strength though. If you have really nasty wheels you can try full strength or 1:1 ratio (1water:1product). Normally I use this product 8:1 8parts water to 1part product for wheels, tires, wheel wells, bugs, and tar. Try 3:1 or 4:1 if the 8:1 doesn't work for the tar, wheels, or bugs. You may have to use multiple passes. Don't get this stuff on your skin. The best part about this product is that it will not dry, dye, or stain at all. It will not turn your plastics and rubber white. No matter how many times you use it. I have a customer that I detail his cars every week. I need a product strong enough to keep his wheels completely clean while being 100 percent safe. "

I was really trying to bite my tongue as best as I can but this is by far the worst advise to give to a beginner and I am talking about the entire thread. CS7 and axis gave good advise. You not so much.

First I thought this was a thread about OTC products, then you pull out a product that Paul Dalton uses. Yes, it is P21s however what you wrote out is false. P21s is one of my favorite products, first it will dry on your paint and it does become to be a pain to get off as well if not used properly. It will cause plastic to discolor if not rinsed off properly. Dilution ratios look OK but the stuff is perfectly safe on your skin and is one of the few products that I trust to use without gloves.

You pad selection is so false it is absurd. Telling a beginner to go from a light cutting pad to a ultra fine finishing pad is not very logical. Then couple it with Scratch X and the say NXT is a polish. Please do some research before giving someone bad advise especially a beginner.

Heck with it I can go on for awhile.

The only thing worth reading in this thread is your signature.

[67RS2010SS]

Originally Posted by Tecca

I was really trying to bite my tongue as best as I can but this is by far the worst advise to give to a beginner and I am talking about the entire thread. CS7 and axis gave good advise. You not so much.

First I thought this was a thread about OTC products, then you pull out a product that Paul Dalton uses. Yes, it is P21s however what you wrote out is false. P21s is one of my favorite products, first it will dry on your paint and it does become to be a pain to get off as well if not used properly. It will cause plastic to discolor if not rinsed off properly. Dilution ratios look OK but the stuff is perfectly safe on your skin and is one of the few products that I trust to use without gloves.

You pad selection is so false it is absurd. Telling a beginner to go from a light cutting pad to a ultra fine finishing pad is not very logical. Then couple it with Scratch X and the say NXT is a polish. Please do some research before giving someone bad advise especially a beginner.

Heck with it I can go on for awhile.

The only thing worth reading in this thread is your signature.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by Tecca

I was really trying to bite my tongue as best as I can but this is by far the worst advise to give to a beginner and I am talking about the entire thread. CS7 and axis gave good advise. You not so much.

First I thought this was a thread about OTC products, then you pull out a product that Paul Dalton uses. Yes, it is P21s however what you wrote out is false. P21s is one of my favorite products, first it will dry on your paint and it does become to be a pain to get off as well if not used properly. It will cause plastic to discolor if not rinsed off properly. Dilution ratios look OK but the stuff is perfectly safe on your skin and is one of the few products that I trust to use without gloves.

You pad selection is so false it is absurd. Telling a beginner to go from a light cutting pad to a ultra fine finishing pad is not very logical. Then couple it with Scratch X and the say NXT is a polish. Please do some research before giving someone bad advise especially a beginner.

Heck with it I can go on for awhile.

The only thing worth reading in this thread is your signature.

I would have to agree with this post. I didn't post in this thread because I thought much the same, but didn't want to offend.

Some of the original post is good, but also a lot of it doesn't make sense to me at least.

[DARK AGE 53]

Originally Posted by Tecca

I was really trying to bite my tongue as best as I can but this is by far the worst advise to give to a beginner and I am talking about the entire thread. CS7 and axis gave good advise. You not so much.

First I thought this was a thread about OTC products, then you pull out a product that Paul Dalton uses. Yes, it is P21s however what you wrote out is false. P21s is one of my favorite products, first it will dry on your paint and it does become to be a pain to get off as well if not used properly. It will cause plastic to discolor if not rinsed off properly. Dilution ratios look OK but the stuff is perfectly safe on your skin and is one of the few products that I trust to use without gloves.

You pad selection NXT Generation® Tech Wax® 2.0 . Telling a beginner to go from a light cutting pad to a ultra fine finishing pad is not very logical. Then couple it with Scratch X and the say NXT is a polish. Please do some research before giving someone bad advise especially a beginner.

Heck with it I can go on for awhile.

The only thing worth reading in this thread is your signature.

Really, working 25 years of my 33 years in a G.M Paint Repair Building tells me I know something about paint.

You don't think Scratch X is a good choice then good for you, you think NXT is a true wax then good for you and you think my choice of pads is not very logical then good for you.

In reply 3 I invited CS7 to come over and we can compare notes, more then glad to have him take a look at my black SS and tell everyone how bad my advise is.

One thing I've learned is giving a different opinion then the masses think is like talking politics, the floor is yours......I'm sure you'll give the beginner better advise.

[chicagobulls]

Yes your post is very helpful no worries and you guys need to be nicer. He was trying to help people not mislead them.

Tech wax 2.0 Is a sealant that includes swirl filling properties. This hides the swirls but when you strip the wax they will still be there.

The tech wax does not remove clear coat therefore is not a polish. This everyone will agree with.

This is the best advice for a begginer.

First wash with dawn soap diluted. Use any good wheel cleaner if necessary. Dry car.

1. Use Clay bar any brand meguiars or mothers OTC.

2. Compound with M105 or ultimate compound with compound pad. Detailers domain yellow pad

3. Polish with M205 or ultimate polish with a polish pad. Green detailers domain pad.

4. IPA wipe down.

5. Seal with tech wax 2.0
Black wax/ $ealant pad.

Done.

[ec1990]

Originally Posted by chicagobulls

Yes your post is very helpful no worries and you guys need to be nicer. He was trying to help people not mislead them.

Tech wax 2.0 Is a sealant that includes swirl filling properties. This hides the swirls but when you strip the wax they will still be there.

The tech wax does not remove clear coat therefore is not a polish. This everyone will agree with.

This is the best advice for a begginer.

1. Use Clay bar any brand meguiars or mothers OTC.

2. Compound with M105 or ultimate compound with compound pad. Detailers domain yellow pad

3. Polish with M205 or ultimate polish with a polish pad. Green detailers domain pad.

4. IPA wipe down.

5. Seal with tech wax 2.0
Black wax/ $ealant pad.

Done.

I will say for a beginner I don't like the 105/205 combo. It can take quite a bit to get used and can cause a lot of dust. I understand that you can get it OTC but in my opinion Menz FG400/SF4500 or Optimum Hyper Compound/Polish are better choices and are more user friendly.

[chicagobulls]

I agree.

Although that is why I put the ultimate polish and compound as well. You can even use these by hand!

I am giving OTC products. I know menzerna is good but I have heard a lot of things about menzerna polishes being to much to handle for a beginner on autopia.

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by chicagobulls

I agree.

Although that is why I put the ultimate polish and compound as well. You can even use these by hand!

I am giving OTC products. I know menzerna is good but I have heard a lot of things about menzerna polishes being to much to handle for a beginner on autopia.

If you can't get it done with Menzerna, you should probably just go to a professional.