Rx's or Moroso's catchcans ?!

[SC2150]

2010 syn..that would be a first out of over 11,000 in use. Can you post detailed pictures of your hoses and where all runs? And you have verified the drain is closed (threads out extended, open threads are retracted up into the can) SOmething simple is happening.

EZ,

Since the lower collection chamber is so small you could not go to far before it will cause the caught oil to splash and cause more info:

As for cans, here are the most common you will see and a detailed description on how they work, (and dont work).

We'll start with some of most common ebay/made in china ineffective cans that are really no more than a "empty beer can":

This one is very common and is generally bought from ebay, but several company also brand it. Comes with fittings, a universal braket, sight tube to see when it needs to emptied:


And the inside......notice not only is it completely an empty can, but the fittings are just punched in with metal filings hanging:


This is another Ebay/China cheapo. Looks nice, ends are milled from billet and the main body extruded aluminum. This can is very common and is seen in many colors and with over 20 companies branding it as "their own design". Search on ebay to see for yourself:


And as you can see, allthough it is a good size, and looks nice, just an empty can again. The majority of all vapors enter and do a quick U turn and exit:

So again, no different than an empty "jumbo" beer can.

And now to another variation of ebay/china. Sight windows and can be had in several colors or a carbon fiber wrap:


Now the inside:
Bonded together with plastic resin...this insulates it greatly reducing the ability to condense oil vapors....and since it relies on the plastic to seal it this one had a good sized vacuum leak where it didnt get coated, and time will tell if this resin delaminates over time from the fuel/oil vapors. It also has what the instructions describe as a "Robber Strip".....not sure what that is.


Notice, if they would have designed it so the inlet tube protruded through the screen, it would actually have a bit better effectiveness, but since it terminates in the top the majority of the vapors just do a quick U turn back out.



Now on to one made in the USA, quality of the machining is top notch, excellent appearance, solid bracket. You will see dozens of variations of this with the appearance slightly different on the top and some cary very well known brands:


Now look closely at the internal design. There is no specified inlet or outlet, and when you unscrew it you see the vapors enter through one fitting, travel through coalscing media (so far so good) but it just U turns into the outlet side into more coalscing material which acts the same way as taking a wet wash cloth and holding it to your mouth and sucking on it...the liquid pull right through. So even though it looks awesome, and the machining is top notch, since it is so small the flow never slows enough to allow most droplets to fall out of suspension so they suck right into the other side and out the outlet.

A can has to be large enough so the velocity, or the flow speed through the can slows enough for the condensed droplets to fall out of suspension and not carried through (take a straw and drip a small amount of water in a saucer, suck on the straw and it will draw the liquid up completely...similar to the dentist suction tube, now take a piece of garden hose and try the same....you wont get any, or almost no liquid due to the internal volumn of the hose/straw/container used as an oil separator.




Let me add in the home air compressor separators many use:

These will catch oil, but stayrate in a few hundred miles allowing all oil to pull through after it reaches saturation. As this one shows, this company adds a hose to the drain to return the contaminated oil to the crankcase reintroducing the damaging combustion byproducts into the engine oil accelerating wear and damage. All in not understanding all the purposes and functions of todays PCV systems.

Now on to the ones that work. Starting with the Mike Norris, CCA, (and several others that brand this unit). As you can see, the oil enters the top, passes through a small chamber with coalescing material that does a good job of separating the oil and as the flow pulls through, the larger droplets fall into the bottom for collection and only the smallesr ones get pulled through. Mainly because the outlet is only 1" from the droplets dripping out of the chamber as the speed of the flow will pull a small amount through. This is a very good functioning can and allows a very small amount of pull through and is one we endorse as worth using on most NA applications. Nice looking, durable, and functional for the reasons listed:


On to the next 2 that are excellent in function and quality. The Elite and the AMW. Both are slightly different in appearance, but both use the same basic very effective design internally. Even though from the outside they may look similar to the one with so many brands that does not work well, these work excellent:

First the Elite:



Look above closeley. The coalescing chamber is quite large and is very effective in trapping the oil from suspension and all but the smallest drops fall to the bottom where they are trapped to drain later. The outlet barb is app 2" from the bottom of the coalscing chamber so less chane for pull through. Excellent can we also endorse.

The AMW:



A bit different in appearance, but using the same internal principal of the Elite.....an excellent can that we also endorse.

These last 3 I want to point out are direct competitors of RX but are excellent (some of the ONLY ones worth purchasing out of the hundreds to choose from) and have our endorsement. Well worth buying and installing to prevent the issues described throughout this thread.

Now the RX can. Several things in this design are unlike any other on the market. The distance the oil laden fumes travel from entering, through 3 different chambers which each have a function, is over 7" so pull through from droplets falling to the bottom for collection is near impossible. It also is nearly 1 qt of internal volume (standard can, Monster is nearly 2 quarts) so the velocity, or speed of the flow can slow enough for even the smallest of droplets to fall out of suspension:




Follow the pictures below of a disected RX can. The vapors first enter the top center and travel down the dispersion tube that distributes the vapors evenly into the large coalescing chamber where 90% plus of the oil is separated from the vapors and can drop into the collection and condensing chamber. This uses the temprature differential to condense any oil still suspended into large enough drops that then collect on the outer cooling surface and drop to the bottom for collection. Then the vapors have to travel past a disc baffel into the separate outlet chamber where they have one final cooling step to allow any trace oil to condense befor exiting through a flow controlling checkvalve that prevents any back flow at WOT when intake vacuum is at its lowest level and also prevents the vapors from flowing through to fast.
The oil laden vapors at no time mix with crankcase vapors already cleaned as they exit. Every other design has points where the dirty, and cleaned vapors mingle so there is no way to separate 100% of the oil as some of the entering vapors are always mixing with the exiting vapors.





Now the Saikou Micchi is also a very effective functioning can but I dont have time to post all out there, but anyone that has visited in person has seen the examples of both.

All we source, do a several hundred mile drive with a clear glass inline checkvalve installed between the can and the intake manifold vacuum barb and over this same drive route, with the same car (we know its consumption), and then judge the amount that pulled through and was caught in the clear glass filter. With the average empty/ebay/china can the filter is saturated in 50-100 miles beyound capacity showing 50-80% plus of the oil travels right through into the intake air charge.

The poor designed nice looking ones work a bit better, but still pull through 30% plus where the ones we endorse allow less than 10% pull through to under 5% which is excellent in eliminating most of the issues caused by oil ingestion into the intake air charge.

And more specific question, ask & I'll do my best to answer each accurately.

Top pics? Mike Norris, Elite, AMW, Saikou Micchi and RX. There are a few other we have seen advertised that look like they will also be excellent in function, but we have yet to purchase, test, and dissect.

[Ron_Robinson1]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

I have the Moroso can, work great and the quality is amazing. If you have a skilled mechanic he'll get it to work just right.

This is what I found in mine the 2nd. time I drained it after 2.5k/kms.

Can't speak for the RX, I'm sure it's a decent product but for me Moroso all the way.

If you need a skilled mechanic to make your catch can work "just right" that's an issue. I'm not a mechanic, and I have installed 2 Rx catch cans that work "just right". A stage 1 and a stage 2 with my blower. Don't know about Moroso, but the customer server from Tracey is top notch through email, he walked me through my install issue with my lysholm blower.

RX FTW

[EZStreet]

Hi Tracy,

"Since the lower collection chamber is so small you could not go to far before it will cause the caught oil to splash and cause more info".????

Sorry, it looks like you were going to say something here....

How much additional depth would be required for this fat little can to work IYO

Why isn't the RX can made with the ability to open it for cleaning???

Thanks,

EZ

[SC2150]

If you look and measure the bottom chamber it is only a few inches deep, so if you extend a divider down the center even an inch or so, when the can fills to close to the divider, the flow through will "whip" oil froth into mist again and it will be drawn through. Removing the filter media from the chamber used on the outlet will help it function better, but at best in the pull through testing it only catches app 50-60% of the oil (they have a nice marketing video with a bottom milled from clear acrylic to show it cathing oil....pretty impressive, but it does not show how much is pulling through.




Cans should never need cleaning the life of the engine, but it is easy enough to spray some brake clean in, shake for a few minutes and drain if desired. It would cost us app $20-25 more to produce a version that comes apart. We have one to demonstrate and show visitors, but we provide the most functional oil seaparting can on the market currently at a competitive price.....not sure if most would pay the extra to be able to take it apart:

[The 2010 Sin]

Tracy I'll get you pics asap. Yes I hope its something easy. I dont hear the check valve clicking on the breather like some people say they do but I'll show you pics and you give me insight! :-)

[The 2010 Sin]

[SC2150]

Your lines are all correct, but we need to go step by step to test all now.

Pull the line off of the valley cover barb, then start the car and let idle. There should be a strong vacuum pull on your finger if you put your finger on the hose end, If so, then shut engine off, connect any hose to the valley cover and blow through....should blow easy and unrestricted. That will eliminate a plugged valley orfice.

Then reinstall as you had it.

Next is to at idle, feel the drain hose. There should be NO suction on that line as it is for drain only.

If there is, the drain is either open or is faulty.

If there is no suction, then with car off, remove the drain from the bottom of the can with a 9/16" wrench just incase the valve is not opening. If that is the case oil will flow out.

Take each step at a time and let me know the results.

Oldest daughter is getting married tommorrow, so I am out until Monday.

[The 2010 Sin]

Tracy, got the fix.. my valve in the bottom of the can is faulty
Opened her up with a 9/16 and I had a gusher... this thing had to been over full