04-07-2011, 07:20 PM | #127 |
Apprehensive Optimist
Drives: '10 SS/RS SIM Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: JAX
Posts: 1,383
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you're welcome to borrow mine...what day are you heading out?
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Car is for sale --->http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158486
Current Summary: Engine:Phase One-(All work by Vengeance Racing): Custom Cam, AR Headers, ported throttle body, ported intake, custom tune, dual valve springs, hardened push rods, under drive pulley, thermostat, Vararam CAI, C5R timing chain, Melling oil pump catch can, breather, MagnaFlow Sport Axle Back Suspension: Pfadt Sport Sway Bars, Pfadt drop springs Other: MGW Shifter, Custom Paint my build journal ---->http://camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30057 |
04-08-2011, 09:59 PM | #128 |
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 233
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I just did this, it is definitely better than running to the fuse box using a fuse tap, spade connector or any of that other stuff. 15 minutes tops. Pop the mirror off, stealth plug, match black to black, red to red/pink and you're good to go.
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Camaro Club of the Rockies
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04-09-2011, 11:22 AM | #129 |
Apprehensive Optimist
Drives: '10 SS/RS SIM Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: JAX
Posts: 1,383
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sorry I lost the pictures...I switched off comcast and forgot to download all my pictures... :(
Perhaps the next person that does this can take a few quick pics and we can update...
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Car is for sale --->http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158486
Current Summary: Engine:Phase One-(All work by Vengeance Racing): Custom Cam, AR Headers, ported throttle body, ported intake, custom tune, dual valve springs, hardened push rods, under drive pulley, thermostat, Vararam CAI, C5R timing chain, Melling oil pump catch can, breather, MagnaFlow Sport Axle Back Suspension: Pfadt Sport Sway Bars, Pfadt drop springs Other: MGW Shifter, Custom Paint my build journal ---->http://camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30057 |
05-18-2011, 06:09 PM | #130 |
Drives: Black Camaro 2LT RS with Sunroof Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 257
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Hey guys I am having a little trouble. Attempting to hardwire the v1. Went to radioshack and they did not have any fuse taps. The v1 comes with a t tap. I was wondering if anyone went that route. Do you need to use invisicord? Thanks guys.
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2011 Blk on Blk 2LT
[x] Perma-grin [x]1000 Watt Dual 12'' Subs (******** Harness) [x]Blacked out Bow-ties [x]AACStyle Blue Footwell Lights. [x]AACStyle Blue LED Dome Light. [x]AACStyle Blue LED Trunk Light [x]Knight Rider 54 Blue LED [X]Valentine 1 Hard Wire [X]Valentine 1 Concealed Display [ ]20 %Tinted Windows [ ]LED Underglow [ ]Rear Footwell Lights [ ]ABL Extension [ ]Camaro RS Projection [ ]Painted Calipers [ ]Glove Box Light [ ]Door Handle Lights [ ]Cold Air Inductions CAI [ ]AACStyle Plasma DRL [ ]AACStyle License Plate LEDS |
06-09-2011, 10:03 AM | #131 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS RJT, 6speed Join Date: May 2011
Location: South Florida
Posts: 887
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Quote:
V1 does get hot though. I've read that's normal but darn... Florida sun doesn't help I'm sure. |
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12-24-2011, 04:57 PM | #132 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL-1, Victory Red Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 378
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I'm going to try this for my V1 this week. Not sure if I will use power from the mirror, the light, or the fuse box, but I'll take photos for the next person. If only as a lesson in how not to do it, if it turns out poorly!
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12-27-2011, 09:33 AM | #133 |
Camaro SS Lover
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black IOM Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
Posts: 2,863
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Strange, can't see the OP's photos only the placeholders are visible.
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12-28-2011, 02:11 PM | #134 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL-1, Victory Red Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 378
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Did it!
OK, I installed my V1 wiring in much the same way Macamaro did, from the fuse box through the trim to the driver's visor. It worked pretty well, but I'll point out a few problem areas with the following photos.
I don't know how to caption these photos, so I'll summarize by saying the first photo shows a clip that disappeared as I removed the fuse box door. I was off to a great start, huh? The fourth photo shows the mysterious extra fuse that showed up (the clear one) as soon as I removed the one from F17. It's 2A and I have no idea where it came from. I'm assuming if it's not a spare I will soon find that something doesn't work! Photo five shows the fuse tap in place. I had to Dremel the metal a bit to make it fit then I really had to wedge it into the hole along with the fuse. I was surprised the metal didn't bend and break. Before I ran the wire through the headliner I made sure the V1 was working, photo 9. In the last photo you can see all the extra wire I was left with. I know I should cut it and make it shorter, but I'll leave that for another day. Instead, I simply tie-wrapped it and stuck it next to the detector. As soon as I remove the detector the extra wire will fall down, which will probably be pretty annoying, so I'm thinking of leaving the detector on my visor from now on. The only thing is I don't want it to be stolen and I'm not sure we're allowed to have radar detectors on base (but I'll check). (I work at an Air Force base.) Well, I hope this proves useful for someone. It was a little harder than I expected, but at least that damn wire is out of my hair (until I remove the detector from its holster). Let me know if you have questions. |
01-04-2012, 06:30 PM | #135 |
Drives: 2012 45th Camaro, 2SS/M6 Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: At my computer
Posts: 1,318
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i just did this on my 2012. this technique was way easier than tapping into the rear view mirror. the a-pillar gave me a little grief. i just pulled on it at the top and it came out about 1/4" so at that point i just used a wire hanger, taped the smart cord to it, and fed it down and it came out right at the fuse box.
also, no reason to use a connector on your fuse. just strip about 1/2" of wire and twist it around the top of one of the prongs on the fuse and stick it in. works like a charm. |
01-05-2012, 11:40 AM | #136 | |
I.AM.
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS/A6 cammed-n-whippled Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 2,638
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Quote:
cool, but really, that doesn't sound any easier than tapping into the rear view mirror power.
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NY5thgen.com
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01-05-2012, 12:44 PM | #137 |
Let's go Rangers!
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^This. It would have been much more simple to tap into the mirror. Purchased an inviscord and took about 5 minutes.
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01-05-2012, 01:26 PM | #138 | |
Drives: 2012 45th Camaro, 2SS/M6 Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: At my computer
Posts: 1,318
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Quote:
what i was trying to state is that i already owned the smartcord and that was my preference of wiring all along. however, as seamless as the a-pillar connects to the dash and roof of our cars, i was convinced that the smartcord installation would be difficult and the invisicord would be the way to go. in case anyone owns a smartcord already and/or has a 2012, i think hardwiring to the fusebox is superior to buying an invisicord and going through that install, which appears to be on the same level of difficulty. besides, this is a DIY for hardwiring to the fuse box, not invisicord wiring. |
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01-05-2012, 04:50 PM | #139 | |
I.AM.
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS/A6 cammed-n-whippled Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 2,638
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Quote:
K, glad it worked out for you. I find it hard to believe there's ONLY "always on" power going to the mirror....but hey, guess it could be.
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NY5thgen.com
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01-05-2012, 08:18 PM | #140 | |
Quote:
Easy install, Remove one screw holding the mirror using a #20 torx driver, slide mirror upwards to remove, disconnect the plug, slide the red wire into the pink wire slot and the black wire in the black wire slot and you have switched power. The confusion is, there is a pink wire on both sides of the plug, if you plug into the wrong side it will not be switched. To identify the correct side, one side has an empty wire slot. That is the wrong side, use the pink wire on the opposite side of plug. Not to worry the Stealth mirror cord comes with pictured instructions. Last edited by L99; 01-05-2012 at 08:36 PM. |
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