need opinions on pricing

[Kubi]

Ok I have a local shop here in ST Pete that my dealer turned me on to. This is what I am going to have done and I like to know what you all think

1) MP2300TVS supercharger kit
2) CNC ported LS-3 Heads / Rev Valvles / Heavy duty springs 7 degree locks
3) cam
4) Kooks Stainless 1 7/8" long tube with 3" 304 stainless high flow cats to stock exhaust
5) 2 mutlilayer head gaskets
6) 2 3 layer stailess header gaskets
7) 1-set of ARP head bolts
8) TR-6 plugs
9) dyno tune before and after
10) misc oil, antifreeze...etc
11) all labor
12) If I need a car a loaner will be provided.

Total package $13821.00

He will include labor if any of the parts fail do to manufacture defect and have to be replaced.

is this fair?....Thanks

[Hyp]

Thats one hell of a deal man! Just make sure these guys know what they are doing! You dont want to be a test dummy for a new shop.

[jude]

I agree that this is a good deal. I priced the parts similar to the ones you are putting on and it was around $15K. Some advice from someone that has a car with similar mods. Be aware that you no longer have a car that is stock and what I mean by this is that you will have warning lights come on. So you will have to get the codes cleared and you will have to bring it in for tweaks here and there. The stock parts may or may not handle the increased horsepower/torque. If your car is a standard you better throw in a clutch too. I smoked a ceramic single disk in under 700 miles and that is including the 500 mile break in period on it. I am not trying to discourage you any just be aware. Good luck with you build!

[ZZcamaro]

It is a fair price...
As long as they know what they are doing, and do not start adding on little fees which they "forgot" to mention before, then you will be in good shape. Just so you know, they get some pretty nice discounts on those parts, so you still have some room to negotiate, they are still making over 1500 on install....That being said, 1500 i smor ethan fair for that amount of work.

Like another person mentioned, if this is a manual car, a clutch is going to be needed very soon down the road.

[Kubi]

Originally Posted by jude

The stock parts may or may not handle the increased horsepower/torque. If your car is a standard you better throw in a clutch too. I smoked a ceramic single disk in under 700 miles and that is including the 500 mile break in period on it. I am not trying to discourage you any just be aware. Good luck with you build!

May I ask what clutch did you go with?


HYP and ZZcamaro...thank you for your input!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Kubi

Ok I have a local shop here in ST Pete that my dealer turned me on to. This is what I am going to have done and I like to know what you all think

1) MP2300TVS supercharger kit
2) CNC ported LS-3 Heads / Rev Valvles / Heavy duty springs 7 degree locks
3) cam
4) Kooks Stainless 1 7/8" long tube with 3" 304 stainless high flow cats to stock exhaust
5) 2 mutlilayer head gaskets
6) 2 3 layer stailess header gaskets
7) 1-set of ARP head bolts
8) TR-6 plugs
9) dyno tune before and after
10) misc oil, antifreeze...etc
11) all labor
12) If I need a car a loaner will be provided.

Total package $13821.00

He will include labor if any of the parts fail do to manufacture defect and have to be replaced.

is this fair?....Thanks

The only problem I see is he figured Nothing about fuel delivery, the supercharger alone can suck the fuel system down below safe levels.

You will need a fuel system upgrade to support this much HP which should be well in to the mid 600s at the rear wheels.

Ted.

[jude]

Originally Posted by Kubi

May I ask what clutch did you go with?


HYP and ZZcamaro...thank you for your input!

I went with Street Dual Clutch Systems with Retrofit T-56 Bearing upgrade.

http://www.ramclutches.com/Products/street%20strip.htm

The clutch is holding up very well to the high torque of my car. I'm really impressed with the results and it has a totally different feel from stock. Their is no rattle while in idle and from my understanding is a common trait with the use of a twin disk clutch. A few of my friends that have 2010 camaros have driven mine and all said it functions quite well. It is also next on the list for their builds as well.

I also agree with JANNETTYRACING's comment about the fuel system upgrade. Keep in mind that if you exceed 550rwhp that the demand for fuel is increased and if it is starved could have unwanted results. I ran a Fastlane duel fuel pump module and it works great. But if your not pushing past 500-550rwhp you may be ok with the stock pump.

[ZZcamaro]

I went with the Fidanza kit...
They make a great twin disk clutch that is easy to drive, but can handle tons of power.

[Carlos Garza]

what about the half shafts, will they hold up with +600 whp?

[Total_Perf_Eng]

First off, ditch the ARP head bolts, and go with ARP head studs. In a boosted application, their worth their weight in gold.

Also, its missing a few things..

Front Cover Gasket
New Crank seal
H/D timing set
Chromoly pushrods

These are an absolute must!! Dont ever listen to someone who says that just because the gaskets are fairly new, that they will be fine.. BS!! The crank seal seats a specific way, and when you remove the front cover, it can/will leak.

Although some will argue that the timing set isnt an absolute must due to how new the current set is, you need to lok at how much additional stretch will be introduced on the stock chain, as well as the cost to replace it when something is wrong. Not to mention what happens when they jump a tooth, and change valve timing. The 150 bucks in the beginning, is WELLLL worth the money. They shouldnt charge you a dime in additional labor, as this is something they have to install anyways.

Other than that, its a decent price. Not a fall down killer price, but at least the shop is being paid for the amount of work being provided. Its not an easy undertaking by any stretch. Being that its not a deal that you cant find anywhere else, make sure you are having it done by a shop that knows what their doing. And not just because a buddy of a buddy told you to go there.
Survey the shop.. are they clean?? Or do they have sh!t piled on top of cars, and nasty greasy junk everywhere. What kind of cars do they build on a daily basis? If they dont specialize in GM product, I would do business with them.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Carlos Garza

what about the half shafts, will they hold up with +600 whp?

Providing the car never wheel hops then YES.

So Suspension upgrades and Slicks are a must for drag racing.

Ted.

[jude]

I think after everyone's suggestions we added on another 3-5K to your decent price build. Before you know it you'll end up like me; putting an LSX block in and going for 900rwhp,lol! Everyone brought good opinions to the table and at lease you know what will be you problem areas later down the line. Good luck!!

[Z_Rocks]

Originally Posted by Kubi

Ok I have a local shop here in ST Pete that my dealer turned me on to. This is what I am going to have done and I like to know what you all think

1) MP2300TVS supercharger kit
2) CNC ported LS-3 Heads / Rev Valvles / Heavy duty springs 7 degree locks
3) cam
4) Kooks Stainless 1 7/8" long tube with 3" 304 stainless high flow cats to stock exhaust
5) 2 mutlilayer head gaskets
6) 2 3 layer stailess header gaskets
7) 1-set of ARP head bolts
8) TR-6 plugs
9) dyno tune before and after
10) misc oil, antifreeze...etc
11) all labor
12) If I need a car a loaner will be provided.

Total package $13821.00

He will include labor if any of the parts fail do to manufacture defect and have to be replaced.

is this fair?....Thanks

Why don't you forget all that "Head" work and save yourself money (and more money) and stay with stock head and Cam. The S/C on stock head and cam, will run you nice and feels like stock car as well. Don't get into a half-built engine. Just get S/C, CAI, Headers and Clutch and you'll still save money and you get about 550HP to wheel and don't break things.

My two cents!
..Ben

[old motorhead]

Originally Posted by Z_Rocks

Why don't you forget all that "Head" work and save yourself money (and more money) and stay with stock head and Cam. The S/C on stock head and cam, will run you nice and feels like stock car as well. Don't get into a half-built engine. Just get S/C, CAI, Headers and Clutch and you'll still save money and you get about 550HP to wheel and don't break things.

My two cents!
..Ben

I'd leave the heads alone also. The LS3 heads stock from GM are better than most ported versions of earlier LS heads. How much "extra" power are you supposed to gain from the head swap? The cam swap isn't that much extra work because you have to do most of it anyway to pin the crank. With a mild cam and stock heads, you can get 650+ easily on mild boost. I think re-using the stock mufflers will cost you quite a bit of HP though.