What should I add? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-28-2015, 02:13 AM

I'm going to get some shot installed this next week. Might push it back.

I'm sick of doing work twice or three times...

I was planning to install my BMR front and rear sways, end links and lower control arms. 2010 here so essentially the fe4 upgrade.

What else should I think about doing now that I will look back on in 3 months, 6 months or a year and say "why the hell didn't I do that?"

hammdo · 03-28-2015, 10:01 AM

Training arms and bushings, toe rods, upper control arm bushings, cradle bushing inserts if you don't want to fully drop the cradle. On the front, radius arm bushings are a good idea...

When your doing the lower control arm, access to the bolts for the trailing arm etc is much easier as it is out of the way. Also the shocks are easier to replace as you have to drop the LCA anyway.

-Don

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-29-2015, 12:16 PM

I wonder how much those would add to install time, Don?

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-29-2015, 12:17 PM

With the FE4 conversion, will I need to re time bushings?

NotYetLegend · 03-29-2015, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

With the FE4 conversion, will I need to re time bushings?

Just the bushings on either side of the new lower control arms. The shock mount is not changed so the ride height remains the same, the bushings that are already there are good to go. The lower control arm bushings are new and therefore will need to be timed.

If you do the inserts on the front radius arms those bushings will also need to be timed after install (assuming you install them with the car on jacks/lift w the suspension hanging).

hammdo · 03-29-2015, 12:34 PM

Yes, re-timing would be needed -- when you get your alignment, you need to specify they do that. I'd look for a shop that does 'performance' alignments as the 'typical' shops go by the factory spec. JusticPete can help you get your specs. There is a sticky he keeps up with.

How much time? If you have everything, you can do pretty much all of that in a weekend (assuming you're dropping the cradle some to do the bushing inserts) -- it makes it easier to do the upper control arm bushings @ the same time. Since you have the LCA off, then all you'll need to do is drop the shocks and replace them -- much easier to do that with the LCA off. Trailing arm bushing are a snap then as the LCA is out of the way and you can 'press' them off -- look @ my build thread page 1 and you'll see the suspension links -- I show how I changed the bushings for the trailing arms.

Toe Rods are also easier while the lca is off -- same with the new sway bars. You'll have a whole lot more room and won't have to constantly RnR the LCA each tie -- including the shock...

Make sure you use a paint pen to mark the current toe bolt location so you can get the toe as close to original as possible (I show that on my suspension thread also)...

-Don

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-29-2015, 12:35 PM

Well I'm having a shop do the work for the first time on my car. I'll make sure they know! Thanks!

BMR Sales · 03-30-2015, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

I'm going to get some shot installed this next week. Might push it back.

I'm sick of doing work twice or three times...

I was planning to install my BMR front and rear sways, end links and lower control arms. 2010 here so essentially the fe4 upgrade.

What else should I think about doing now that I will look back on in 3 months, 6 months or a year and say "why the hell didn't I do that?"

By your signature, You have done a bunch of improvements. The Koni Yellows will be available soon, so I would add those to the list

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-30-2015, 03:26 PM

Are they a big improvement? Should I hold off for those before installing these pieces?

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-31-2015, 11:27 PM

So add maybe Training arms and bushings, toe rods, upper control arm bushings, cradle bushing inserts

TwentyTen2SSRS · 03-31-2015, 11:28 PM

Supposed to get work done Thursday, May have to reschedule that and order some more parts while I'm at it.

JDP Sales · 04-01-2015, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

So add maybe Training arms and bushings, toe rods, upper control arm bushings, cradle bushing inserts

Definitely good items to add on, but I really don't recommend the inserts for anything but the V6 guys. Even then, a full poly replacement is usually my minimum suggestion. If I had my way, we'd all have solid mounted cradles.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

TwentyTen2SSRS · 04-01-2015, 01:41 PM

Thanks Tyler! Moving forward with my fe4 and will see how it goes from there. Confirmed with shop it wouldn't be duplicate work so wouldn't be saving any more or less by adding these pieces later

JDP Sales · 04-01-2015, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Thanks Tyler! Moving forward with my fe4 and will see how it goes from there. Confirmed with shop it wouldn't be duplicate work so wouldn't be saving any more or less by adding these pieces later

Yeah, not really saving much other than another alignment.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

03-28-2015, 02:13 AM	#1
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	What should I add? I'm going to get some shot installed this next week. Might push it back. I'm sick of doing work twice or three times... I was planning to install my BMR front and rear sways, end links and lower control arms. 2010 here so essentially the fe4 upgrade. What else should I think about doing now that I will look back on in 3 months, 6 months or a year and say "why the hell didn't I do that?" __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-28-2015, 10:01 AM	#2
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Training arms and bushings, toe rods, upper control arm bushings, cradle bushing inserts if you don't want to fully drop the cradle. On the front, radius arm bushings are a good idea... When your doing the lower control arm, access to the bolts for the trailing arm etc is much easier as it is out of the way. Also the shocks are easier to replace as you have to drop the LCA anyway. -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

03-29-2015, 12:16 PM	#3
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	I wonder how much those would add to install time, Don? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-29-2015, 12:17 PM	#4
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	With the FE4 conversion, will I need to re time bushings? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-29-2015, 12:34 PM	#6
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Yes, re-timing would be needed -- when you get your alignment, you need to specify they do that. I'd look for a shop that does 'performance' alignments as the 'typical' shops go by the factory spec. JusticPete can help you get your specs. There is a sticky he keeps up with. How much time? If you have everything, you can do pretty much all of that in a weekend (assuming you're dropping the cradle some to do the bushing inserts) -- it makes it easier to do the upper control arm bushings @ the same time. Since you have the LCA off, then all you'll need to do is drop the shocks and replace them -- much easier to do that with the LCA off. Trailing arm bushing are a snap then as the LCA is out of the way and you can 'press' them off -- look @ my build thread page 1 and you'll see the suspension links -- I show how I changed the bushings for the trailing arms. Toe Rods are also easier while the lca is off -- same with the new sway bars. You'll have a whole lot more room and won't have to constantly RnR the LCA each tie -- including the shock... Make sure you use a paint pen to mark the current toe bolt location so you can get the toe as close to original as possible (I show that on my suspension thread also)... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

03-29-2015, 12:35 PM	#7
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Well I'm having a shop do the work for the first time on my car. I'll make sure they know! Thanks! __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-30-2015, 03:26 PM	#9
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Are they a big improvement? Should I hold off for those before installing these pieces? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-31-2015, 11:27 PM	#10
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	So add maybe Training arms and bushings, toe rods, upper control arm bushings, cradle bushing inserts __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

03-31-2015, 11:28 PM	#11
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Supposed to get work done Thursday, May have to reschedule that and order some more parts while I'm at it. __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

04-01-2015, 01:41 PM	#13
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Thanks Tyler! Moving forward with my fe4 and will see how it goes from there. Confirmed with shop it wouldn't be duplicate work so wouldn't be saving any more or less by adding these pieces later __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)