Front Endlink Question for FE3 Cars with 1LE Struts - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

96SS10SS · 03-08-2016, 05:37 PM

When the FE3 suspension was phased out and the FE4 and up suspensions changed to a 12mm end link to strut stud, did the other end of the end link change as well?

The reason I ask is my Hotchkis front bar is for the 2010-2011 models and I'd like to keep it when changing the struts.

I assume using a 10mm stud in a hole for a 12mm stud is not a good idea.

Is the newer FE4 end link a direct fit on front sway bars designed for FE3 cars?

If not, can I drill out the sway bar holes for the new end link?

Dexman1349 · 03-08-2016, 05:46 PM

I'm doing the same conversion now and from what I've seen only the strut hole is changed, so you would only need the newer end links and can keep your existing bar.

Mike_G · 03-08-2016, 07:41 PM

Your 1LE struts will have the 10mm hole and sway bar will have a 10mm hole as you mentioned. I am not aware of any endlinks out there with this configuration. You can use endlinks with 10mm studs and use a spacer to fill the gap in the strut mounting hole. Ridetech uses this on their endlinks so they can be inter-changeable with any sway bar.

I have drilled out shock mounts in the past for a 12mm stud with no issues but haven't tried drilling out a sway bar so can't help you there.

FunkedOut · 03-08-2016, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike_G

Your 1LE struts will have the 12mm hole and sway bar will have a 10mm hole as you mentioned. I am not aware of any endlinks out there with this configuration. You can use endlinks with 10mm studs and use a spacer to fill the gap in the strut mounting hole. Ridetech uses this on their endlinks so they can be inter-changeable with any sway bar.

I have drilled out shock mounts in the past for a 12mm stud with no issues but haven't tried drilling out a sway bar so can't help you there.

fixed it for you.

same here with drilling struts to 12mm but not bars.
you have to make that call based on how much material will be left when you enlarge the hole. should be fine, but I have never held hotchkis bars.
it's worth the extra few bucks to drill it a bit smaller and team to final size.

96SS10SS · 03-09-2016, 02:12 AM

So the newer end links have a 12mm stud on both ends and FE3 are 10mm both ends?
It sounds like spacers for the strut/end link connection are the cheapest/best way to go in order to retain the same front sway bar. I'd feel much more comfortable doing that than drilling the bar. I wasn't able to find much on this topic so I guess there aren't too many people switching to the new struts and keeping the FE3 style end links and sway bars. I will try to track some spacers down. Thanks everybody.

Mike_G · 03-09-2016, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96SS10SS

So the newer end links have a 12mm stud on both ends and FE3 are 10mm both ends?

yup

03-08-2016, 05:37 PM	#1
96SS10SS hates winter Drives: Black 2010 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Doylestown, PA Posts: 136	Front Endlink Question for FE3 Cars with 1LE Struts When the FE3 suspension was phased out and the FE4 and up suspensions changed to a 12mm end link to strut stud, did the other end of the end link change as well? The reason I ask is my Hotchkis front bar is for the 2010-2011 models and I'd like to keep it when changing the struts. I assume using a 10mm stud in a hole for a 12mm stud is not a good idea. Is the newer FE4 end link a direct fit on front sway bars designed for FE3 cars? If not, can I drill out the sway bar holes for the new end link? __________________ Traded car Aug 2019. 2010 2SS/RS LS3 built October 30, 2009; 416ci/6.8L forged LS3 with 495 RWHP@6k/470 TQ@4.4k; Lunati 235/243 .626"/.634" 114LSA +3; Monster LT-1S twin disc, SLP retro badges, MGW shifter/knob, Hotchkis TVS Stage 1, Pedders Street Z bushings, 3.91 Gear swap, red calipers, Z28 CAI, ZL1 side skirts/rock guards, Kooks 1 7/8" headers, SLP front splitter.

03-08-2016, 05:46 PM	#2
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	I'm doing the same conversion now and from what I've seen only the strut hole is changed, so you would only need the newer end links and can keep your existing bar. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

03-08-2016, 07:41 PM	#3
Mike_G Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Ma Posts: 476	Your 1LE struts will have the 10mm hole and sway bar will have a 10mm hole as you mentioned. I am not aware of any endlinks out there with this configuration. You can use endlinks with 10mm studs and use a spacer to fill the gap in the strut mounting hole. Ridetech uses this on their endlinks so they can be inter-changeable with any sway bar. I have drilled out shock mounts in the past for a 12mm stud with no issues but haven't tried drilling out a sway bar so can't help you there. __________________ Current car 2011 Backdraft RT3 427 stroker (DART block/ forged internals/ AFR 205 Aluminum heads/ Quickfuel 750) 600hp/590ftlbs, wilwood brakes, custom JRI double adjustable shocks. Weighs in at 2300 lbs.... Use to have 2010 Camaro SS - ECS SC 1500, Kooks LTH + HFC, Corsa, CTS-V brakes, Detroit Speed Coilovers, BMR sways (FE4 conversion), DSE endlinks, BMR toe rods and trailing arms, Forgestar F14's

03-09-2016, 02:12 AM	#5
96SS10SS hates winter Drives: Black 2010 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Doylestown, PA Posts: 136	So the newer end links have a 12mm stud on both ends and FE3 are 10mm both ends? It sounds like spacers for the strut/end link connection are the cheapest/best way to go in order to retain the same front sway bar. I'd feel much more comfortable doing that than drilling the bar. I wasn't able to find much on this topic so I guess there aren't too many people switching to the new struts and keeping the FE3 style end links and sway bars. I will try to track some spacers down. Thanks everybody. __________________ Traded car Aug 2019. 2010 2SS/RS LS3 built October 30, 2009; 416ci/6.8L forged LS3 with 495 RWHP@6k/470 TQ@4.4k; Lunati 235/243 .626"/.634" 114LSA +3; Monster LT-1S twin disc, SLP retro badges, MGW shifter/knob, Hotchkis TVS Stage 1, Pedders Street Z bushings, 3.91 Gear swap, red calipers, Z28 CAI, ZL1 side skirts/rock guards, Kooks 1 7/8" headers, SLP front splitter.