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Old 12-31-2018, 07:49 AM   #1
eLeSthree

 
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Anyone running a 6.0 iron truck short block?

I'm looking for an inexpensive alternative to a $5000 forged shortblock.

I've heard the iron 6.0 shortblocks can take a beating, but I'm reading online that the lq4/lq9 have cast pistons, and cast crank. Do any have forged assemblies?

Is anyone pushing a stock 6.0 short block around the 1000 hp area with success?

I'd like to pull my LS3 and keep it aside while I crank this ESS Supercharger up.

If you have a big power budget build, I'd love to know what you're running.

Thanks
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:56 AM   #2
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LQ9 block, you can send it. Machine is out, to 408CI. Pistons rods etc. Ls3 heads and your good to go.
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:58 AM   #3
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I think what you will find, is that there are those few individual cases (LS2 & LS3 blocks)where some guys have achieved 1K+ RWHP numbers on the stock rotating assembly, but those are the exceptions and not the 'rule'.

The cheapest alternative I can think of is just forging your LS3 block, probably in the neighborhood of ~$3K including machine work.

Probably the most cost effective solution is just buy a forged short block from TSP or similar.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:02 AM   #4
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I will be using a stock long block ly6 this season while I build my 427. plan on stopping around 900whp with it
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyb305mia View Post
LQ9 block, you can send it. Machine is out, to 408CI. Pistons rods etc. Ls3 heads and your good to go.
Forged stroker crank is expensive and I dont need the cubes, although they dont hurt..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Batmanntexas View Post
I think what you will find, is that there are those few individual cases (LS2 & LS3 blocks)where some guys have achieved 1K+ RWHP numbers on the stock rotating assembly, but those are the exceptions and not the 'rule'.

The cheapest alternative I can think of is just forging your LS3 block, probably in the neighborhood of ~$3K including machine work.

Probably the most cost effective solution is just buy a forged short block from TSP or similar.
I completely agree. I'm on the fence between those two options currently. But now I'm researching a 3rd option. A used $500 truck motor, no wait time, no shits given... smallest pulley. I guess it comes down to what kind of person you are. Do you want to be replacing blown motors all the time? Or do you want to spend the money once and be done with it.

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Originally Posted by ttshovel View Post
I will be using a stock long block ly6 this season while I build my 427. plan on stopping around 900whp with it
Ok, I see the ly6 is 9.6:1, but also still cast stuff. Any reason you chose that over the lq4 with 9.4:1? Is the compression the only difference between those 2?
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:44 AM   #6
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If you are swapping and using the stock crank I think you will run into problems since the crankshaft reluctor wheel in the LQ4/LQ9 is 24 X while our cars run the 58 X. I think Lingenfelter makes a box that will convert the 58 signal to 24, but not vice versa.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:51 AM   #7
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correct, it's 58x but the ly6/l96 has gen 4 rods over the gen 3 press fit. along with slightly raised water jackets over the gen 3 block and a better casting
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eLeSthree View Post
I completely agree. I'm on the fence between those two options currently. But now I'm researching a 3rd option. A used $500 truck motor, no wait time, no shits given... smallest pulley. I guess it comes down to what kind of person you are. Do you want to be replacing blown motors all the time? Or do you want to spend the money once and be done with it.
You could always go this route while you ''experiment", then once you have the right combo, build your forged motor out of one of your blown cores.

I lived my early years doing exactly this (without the experimenting, boost, or intelligence ) because I could get junkyard SB 350's for $150. I must have went through at least 6 motors my senior year. I got really good at swapping those things out
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:53 AM   #9
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The GM iron blocks are a great alternative! Are you think just bone stock junkyard iron block or putting Pistons and rods in it? I think if you put Pistons and rods in the iron block, you will be in great shape.
Forging the LS3 block at those power levels is a bandaid. It's the block itself that is the weak link
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:09 PM   #10
eLeSthree

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankT View Post
If you are swapping and using the stock crank I think you will run into problems since the crankshaft reluctor wheel in the LQ4/LQ9 is 24 X while our cars run the 58 X. I think Lingenfelter makes a box that will convert the 58 signal to 24, but not vice versa.
Thanks for the heads up on the LQ4/9.
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Originally Posted by ttshovel View Post
correct, it's 58x but the ly6/l96 has gen 4 rods over the gen 3 press fit. along with slightly raised water jackets over the gen 3 block and a better casting
Good to know the ly6 is 58x along with other improvements. Thanks!
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The GM iron blocks are a great alternative! Are you think just bone stock junkyard iron block or putting Pistons and rods in it? I think if you put Pistons and rods in the iron block, you will be in great shape.
Forging the LS3 block at those power levels is a bandaid. It's the block itself that is the weak link
I dont know what I'm thinking yet. TSP's got a well priced Iron Block option at about $4k. After you purchase pistons, rods, bearings, rings, hardware then calculate machining and balancing, and the inconvenience, time and effort that goes into the build. It's almost not worth trying to do it yourself... You dont save much money in the end.

I'm tempted to just get a good running junkyard 6.0 and cram some boost into it. I've got research to do.
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2024 F-150 RCSB 5.0 4x4
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:01 PM   #11
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I run the LQ9 with a Whipple but I forged the bottom end completely. TS offers a great 408 short block. If your stroking go with the melling HV 296, and get the optional 58 RW at no cost. You’ll need to drill the block for accessory mounting. It’s a very solid package and if the right components are added you should be seeing north of 1000+ HP. I find this combination very reliable and have had zero issues other than the additional 80 lbs which I don’t even notice...
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:11 PM   #12
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Just get a LSX376 crate. I've had one in my car for 6 years. 17 lbs boost and 750 whp.
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Old 01-01-2019, 10:37 AM   #13
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Just get a LSX376 crate. I've had one in my car for 6 years. 17 lbs boost and 750 whp.
Why would you do that a 5.3 junkyard motor can make that with no work and it’s $500 lol. Fail. TSP easy, if you want to put together a combo n make big power. Add some more cubes like I’ve ssid before makes it easier. Oh and on price, gotta Pat to play plain and simple.
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Old 01-01-2019, 10:48 AM   #14
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Why would you do that a 5.3 junkyard motor can make that with no work and it’s $500 lol. Fail. TSP easy, if you want to put together a combo n make big power. Add some more cubes like I’ve ssid before makes it easier. Oh and on price, gotta Pat to play plain and simple.

5.3 junkyard engine can do that with no machine work or changing internal parts. And it comes with a warranty from GM. Got it.
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