05-31-2010, 08:22 AM | #29 | |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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Quote:
air from those fog light holes but once again we have water and debris being ingested directly into the intake area. Last edited by boxcar; 05-31-2010 at 09:33 AM. Reason: flunked english |
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05-31-2010, 08:26 AM | #30 |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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Here's the link for the washer bag
click options then you want the flexible washer bag MFR # jw-213 http://www.jcwhitney.com/electric-wi.../p2004481.jcwx I paid 21$ a week ago now there $4.95!! talk about cheap HP one dollor for the foam and $5 for the washer!! Last edited by boxcar; 05-31-2010 at 08:30 AM. Reason: price change |
05-31-2010, 05:21 PM | #31 | |
fr8sty
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro V6 - Cyber Gray Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 7
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Quote:
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"Grey Rena" K&N CAI / MRT 2.0 / Blackout Taillights / Purple ABL / Knight Rider Light |
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05-31-2010, 07:19 PM | #32 |
RKFDGEO- chicago5thgen
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I'm gonna try this also. Ordered the bag tonight. Bring on the steps and pics.
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06-01-2010, 03:44 AM | #33 | |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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Quote:
whole intake thing. I believe the stock GM intake truly is a COLD air intake. The snorkel is sealed to the back of grill where it's getting air from a scoop in the front of the grill NO air is coming from the engine bay. Now If we install an intake such as the K&N or Airade we're getting more air but unless It's completely sealed were sucking hotter air than designed for the car possibly much hotter negating much of the gain of the after market intake. Just my .02 Also there's a good reason GM restricted the air flow. They must design there cars for driving in the worst possible conditions. So even if it's raining frogs we expect the car to operate so we need to proceed carefully with any modifications |
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06-01-2010, 08:23 AM | #34 |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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WASHER BOTTLE DELETE FOR NOOBS
Tools Required 3/8 ratchet 1/2 socket 6in Ext. Phillips screwdriver Dinner Knife or similar I'm oversimplifying alot here especially the jacking and tire removal but if it keeps someone from getting hurt or damaging there car it's worth it so please no face palms 1.JACK THE CAR Make sure it's in gear with the e-brake fully on. My jack was wedged very tightly in the trunk I had to use the tire iron to loosen the jack screw. Find the correct spot! about 7 inches aft of the fender is an opening in the plastic. The metal you feel there goes in the Vee on top of the jack. Jack it up till the wheel is just touching the ground then SLIGHTLY loosen each nut in a criss cross pattern. Remember lefty loosey. Jack it up the rest of the way and remove the nuts and tire. At this point the car should put on a jack stand of some sort. I did not You just accomplished the hardest part of this project! 2. Remove 3 Screws from wheel well shroud on left side near fender.Now you have to remove the push pin fastener thats right in frontof you to the left of the spring. It'sa PIA. I know some of the injen guys broke this fastener while doing this. It's no big deal though. I'm sure GM will sell you another. But I was determined to get it out with out breaking it. I tried several different tools but what worked best a dinner knife! yes I bent the knife and no I didn't tell my wife.Take your time, work all the way around the head when you have it loosened up either get some needle nose pliers around the stem or CAREFULLY pull on the shroud to pull it out. DO NOT allow fastener to pull thru the shroud! If you break the pin I have a trick so you can replace it at a later time with out removing the wheel. 3. REMOVE ELEC CONNECTION Before you go any further figure out what you want to do with the washer fluid. If your going to put it in that other car in the driveway open the hood now and take the top off because you'll have your hands full. You'll see. Now gently pull back the shroud and you'll see that funny looking W/B. Why the hell is it so big? Iv'e owned RV's that had smaller. Anyways remove the elec connection by gently pulling on the tab DON'T break the tab! and pulling up on the connector 4. REMOVE BOLTS There are 3 bolts to remove the 1st one you see will be removed last loosen all three, you will have to feel for the front two and use the 6in ext. Remove the front 2. Now things get a little messy If required put a small pan under the W/B Now remove the rubber hose. fluid will now come out but not that much. The hose is now snaked up the W/B. unwind it from the W/B. Take out the last bolt and your done! It may be helpful to have someone hold the shroud but it's not necessary and if it's your wife don't let her see the bent knife. Reinstall Shroud and wheel and go have fun Hope I didn't forget much for some pics do search for injen install Last edited by boxcar; 06-01-2010 at 11:13 AM. |
06-05-2010, 03:42 PM | #35 |
fr8sty
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro V6 - Cyber Gray Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 7
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Finally got to the washer bottle removal today. It was very simple (Thx @boxcar). Took it out for a spin and I definately felt a difference in the car's acceleration and power. I also tried adding "trim" to the top of the heat shield to seal the area off, but found that my car really lost a lot of power and was sluggish. Took it off and we were back in business!
Would love to see if anyone else tried this and found the same result. I'm also going to go back and put the stock back on just for grins Here are some before and after pics if anyone is interested.
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"Grey Rena" K&N CAI / MRT 2.0 / Blackout Taillights / Purple ABL / Knight Rider Light |
06-05-2010, 04:42 PM | #36 |
SoCal C5 Family Member
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 5,299
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Now, if your V6 bay is the same as the V8, get an ADM Race Scoop and add that! I did the same thing you guys have done, but also opened up some of the lower grill plastic which lets in a lot more fresh air. I just ordered ADM's race scoop which attaches to 2 of the bolts that the washer bottle was attached with. They show you how much to cut from the plastic of the V8 lower grille (Inside the grille, not the grille actually). I'm hoping that improve the air intake.
great job! Oh, good tip on using the OEM washer motor. I have to try that I just used the one that came with the washer bag and T-Tapped into the existing 2 wires.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers; |
06-06-2010, 06:15 AM | #37 |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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fr8sty
Glad it worked for you ! It felt like it took about 100 miles for the computer to relearn so it just keeps getting better. Also remember It's getting hotter outside so we should be making less power but mine feels like it dropped 500 lbs. Great Pics! that should help someone out |
06-06-2010, 06:19 AM | #38 | |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Thats just the final piece needed for this project |
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06-06-2010, 08:11 AM | #39 |
Back on the dino-juice
Drives: '10 LS + a few more Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,641
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And it will keep me from removing the fog light covers.
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06-06-2010, 11:44 AM | #40 |
Drives: 1LT RS, SIM Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 288
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I wonder how the ADM scoop would work with the Airaid? Maybe I would have to cut some holes in the bottom of the filter housing.
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06-06-2010, 01:55 PM | #41 |
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: N.Y.
Posts: 75
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nacho
Is the airaid completely closed at the bottom?. If it is I don't see how it could be sucking any more air than the stock intake. Unless it's hot engine air. \ Get the sawzall out and cut that bottom out. Pull the WB and tell me what you think! Hey if you do pull your filter do me a favor. Please measure the diameter {across} of top and bottom of filter also the length of filter. Doing public math,which always puts me at risk, I estimate the K&N filter to have 25% more surface area than the injen filter. I'm guessing the airaid will be similar.This larger surface area combined with not having to wear the water sock. Should lead to considerable more airflow. Last edited by boxcar; 06-06-2010 at 01:57 PM. Reason: flunked english |
06-06-2010, 03:55 PM | #42 |
Drives: 1LT RS, SIM Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 288
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The airaid using the stock snorkel. It seals to the hood with a rubber gasket. I think the idea is that is more free flowing than stock. I might need to see some dyno numbers on the open bottom intakes before I go chopping into mine. I also would like to wait on my V2 Airaid before comparing. I may try the WB pull though.
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